Iceland 2014 Winter Aurora Workshop Report

In March 2014 I led my annual winter workshop in Iceland with my good friend and fellow Nature photographer Daniel Bergmann. Winter is perhaps my favourite season to visit Iceland (although I do miss access to the highland regions. Look for a brand new Highlands workshop for 2015 I will be announcing here in the coming days). During winter the normally vivid green landscape of Iceland is transformed into a monochromatic moonscape. Waterfalls and glacial lagoons partially freeze, and the landscape is often covered in fresh snow making for superb landscape imagery. The entire country is evocative of a winter scene from Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings and it provides superb opportunities for landscape photography.

During the workshops ten day duration we travelled from the capital city of Reykjavik to Mývatn in the north where we spent several days photographing spectacular winter scenes including the geothermal region of Námafjall and what I regard as Iceland’s most beautiful waterfall – Goðafoss (which roughly translates as the waterfall of the Gods).  Goðafoss is located in the Mývatn district of North-Central Iceland at the beginning of the Sprengisandur highland road. The water of the river Skjálfandafljót falls from a height of 12 meters over a width of 30 meters. This winter photograph of Goðafoss scored a Gold Award at the recent Victorian State Print Awards here in Australia.We also photographed at several locations around the partially frozen lake Mývatn. Mývatn is a lake near Akureyri in North Iceland. The lake was formed during a massive eruption some 2300 years ago. Today the area is best known for the huge numbers of birds that visit in the summer, and for the weird and inspiring volcanic features that surround the lake. The geothermal features at Námafjall are some of my favourite in Iceland. Sulphur belches from the boiling mud pits and fumaroles giving the whole location and incredibly alien off-world feeling. In winter the vents and mud pits are surrounded by snow and ice and there is a fabulous juxtaposition between the pristine snow and the orange mud and rock. Check out the video below shot just for fun of one of the participants walking through one of the larger fumaroles.Some of the participants were fortunate to see and photograph both male and female Gyr Falcon by the side of lake Mývatn. The Gyr falcon is the worlds largest falcon and I have been wanting to see and photograph them for some years now. Although I was finally fortunate to spot one during this trip I was not able to get a photograph. Several of the participants however did get some fantastic images of a female Gyr Falcon by the shore of lake Mývatn where she was perched out of the buffeting wind. Daniel and I raced to this location with our long lenses but she had already left by the time we arrived.

The north of Iceland can be a crazy place in winter with frequent snow storms and regular road closures and thus when the opportunity arose to head south during a twenty four hour weather window we were quick to bug out and make our way to Egilstadir on our way to Höfn and Gerði and the renowned Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon.  Our timing was perfect with the road east opening just in time for our departure  (the road closed again the following day due to another wild snow storm). Along the way we photographed spectacular mountain scenery in this part of the north of Iceland under fresh snow in ideal conditions. The mountain passes of Iceland are incredible in winter and we were well equipped to deal with the snow and ice conditions in our modified super jeeps.At Gerði in the south we spent three days photographing around the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, Fjallsárlón and the Vatnajökull glacier. These areas are perhaps Iceland’s most well known photography destinations and with good reason. The icebergs that calve off the terminal face of the Vatnajökull glacier and are washed out to sea through a narrow channel and then deposited onto the black sand beach provide limitless opportunities and we spent many hours wandering the shore of the lagoon and beach making images. Along with the lagoon itself and the myriad of icebergs that drift in in its half frozen surface there is a lifetime of photography in just this small area.

We also visited the remote Stokksnes peninsula where we photographed dramatic storm light and lenticular clouds over the jagged mountain peaks. Stokksnes is a fabulous location in Iceland that has only recently started to become well known amongst landscape photographers. The black san dune hummocks and tussock grasses makes for wonderful foreground set against the dramatic mountain peaks. I have visited this area many times over the last few years and I have never known it to be free from wind. Our visit this year was no exception with strong winds, racing clouds and dramatic light.We also headed into a spectacular and wondrous ice cave under the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier where we spent several hours photographing the incredible formations, colour and texture found in the glacial ice. This was one of the largest and most impressive ice caves I have ever experienced. The cave extended for more than three hundred metres and through the use of a zodiac and our mountain guide we were able to navigate quite a distance into the cave via the river. The river in this cave rises and falls with swings in the temperature and we were fortunate to be able to penetrate quite deeply into the cave.

The ice cave provided us limitless possibilities for macro detail and abstract photography with the inside of the ice cave akin to some sort of alien spaceship. 

We also travelled up to the terminal face of the Svínafellsjökull glacier where we photographed some large seracs and ice stacks during a clearing winter storm. From the Jökulsárlón lagoon we travelled to the small sea side town of Vik where we photographed the incredible Reynisdrangar sea stacks and basalt column formations along the coastline. This is perhaps my favourite beach for photography in Iceland. There are quite often large rocks in the sand that make for ideal foreground material and the wild surf makes for fantastic imagery.

Iceland in winter can be a real mixed bag of weather but we were fortunate to have some very cooperative weather during our trip that resulted in some wonderful photographic opportunities. The workshop was capped off with a nearly on demand showing of the Aurora (northern lights) over the glacier on our last night at Vik.

Our participants for this workshop came from North America, Australia, and Hong Kong and represented a broad range of experience and skill set. With a ratio of just six to one Daniel and I were able to ensure that those who needed more assistance or were learning to use filters and other equipment for the first time were able to get some fantastic images.

Daniel Bergmann and I have just opened bookings for our 2015 Iceland Aurora Workshop which will focus on the dramatic coastal landscapes of the Snæfellsnes peninsular as well as the east cost including Vik, the spectacular Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon and night time Aurora photography. If you would like to reserve a place please drop either myself or Daniel an email at info@jholko.com. There are limited places remaining.

Don’t forget you can now download a free copy of the Visionary Insights eBook directly from this website.

Ultimate Iceland Summer Workshop Space Available

Daniel Bergmann and I have a single place that has just become available this year on our Ultimate Iceland summer workshop from July 13th – July 23rd. We are looking forward to spectacular waterfalls, glaciers, icebergs and the incredible geothermal highland interior of Iceland all under the soft light of the midnight sun. The workshop investment is $7,450 USD and is fully inclusive of all accommodation, meals and in country transport. If you are interested in photographing the spectacular landscape of Iceland and would like additional information then please drop me an email at info@jholko.com.  This last available place is filled on a first come, first served basis.

Iceland 2015 Winter Aurora Workshop Open for Bookings

Daniel Bergmann and I are pleased to have now finalised our Winter Workshop itinerary for 2015 to Iceland. The workshop will run from the 25th of February until the 6th of March 2015 and will focus on both the Aurora Borealis as well as many of the iconic and lesser known locations of Iceland. For 2015 we will be travelling in two Icelandic Super Jeeps (modified 4-wheel drives) so that we can get off the main bitumen road and into the more interesting areas for photography and experience the true splendour of Iceland in Winter.

At the beginning of March the darkness of the Icelandic winter is starting to lift and the days are becoming longer. We will have up to ten hours of good light during the day and with a little bit of luck the spectacular Northern Lights will increase our photographic opportunities well into the night. Winter conditions in Iceland can be stunningly beautiful: the glacial lagoons freeze, some of the waterfalls are partially frozen, the glaciers appear more blue with fresh snow on top and with fewer visitors, the black sand beaches of the south are more pristine. With true darkness in winter comes the possibility of seeing the awe inspiring Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). We plan to make photographs of them whenever there are clear skies and intense Aurora activity.We have a new itinerary for 2015 that includes many of our favourite locations for Winter photography as well as quite a few new ones we have not included before. Our 2014 workshop sold out in just a few days so if you would like to join us you can register your interest by dropping me an email or by filling in the registration form on my website at www.jholko.com. The workshop is fully inclusive of all meals, accommodation and ground transportation as well as all tuition and image reviews. Places are filled on a first come, first served basis and once they are spoken for thats it. Please be sure to read the testimonials page to see what others are saying about our workshops and expeditions.

Arrived in Iceland – Ready for Winter Aurora Workshop Kick Off!

I don’t think it matters how many times you do the same long haul international flight as it never seems to get any easier or less painful. Even though I was able to co-ordinate my flights to avoid any really horrendous layovers in Dubai or London I didn’t get much sleep on the flights over here and as soon as I finish this blog post I am going to crawl into bed and catch some shut eye so I am fresh and rested for day one of my winter workshop. It is fantastic to be back in Iceland in Winter and I am super keen to get underway tomorrow. We have a really fantastic group of twelve participants on this workshop and Daniel and I have some incredible locations lined up for photography over the next ten days. We will be headed North to some lesser known locations initially as we make our way around the top of the Island before we drop down to some of the more well known locations such as the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon in the south. The weather forecast is looking good for the next few days in the north (storms in the South East) and we are hopeful for some Aurora Borealis (Northern lights) during the evenings. It is going to be a blast and if time permits I will post some updates to my blog and Facebook as we travel around the Island. But right now its time for sleep….

Packing for Iceland in Winter and the Deserts of Namibia

Late this evening (my plane leaves at the not so civilised time of 3:30am) I am starting the long trek to Iceland for my annual winter workshop with my good friend Daniel Bergmann and I have found myself struggling over the last couple of days with a real packing quandary. I will be spending a total of nearly a month in Iceland this winter before I fly directly to Namibia (via Frankfurt) to meet with Andy Biggs for our back-to-back Namibia desert workshops. At the completion of my winter workshop in Iceland and before I head to Namibia I will be heading further north with a film crew and spending a week in the extreme remote north of Iceland on a new project on the Arctic Fox. This means I need to pack my Arctic winter gear as well as clothing suitable for the world’s oldest deserts in Namibia – it has been quite the brain buster trying to rationalise my packing (I know.. its a good problem to have).  In the end I have decided to simply leave my winter gear in Iceland and collect it when I am back there in July later this year. It makes little sense to haul unnecessary winter gear half way around the world through the deserts of Namibia when all it would be doing is adding weight and bulk. With that intention in mind I still had to figure out how to get myself, over twenty kilograms of camera gear plus my winter gear and summer desert clothing for Namibia over to Iceland. I admit it feels a tad strange to be packing a wide brimmed sunhat and sunshirts with my arctic boots and winter clothing. The issue is somewhat compounded by the fact that Iceland and Namibia require very different approaches in terms of camera gear which adds both weight and complexity. Perhaps doubly so as I am carrying long and heavy telephoto lenses for my project on the Arctic Fox at the completion of my winter workshop. In the end I have packed almost my entire lens line-up and my checked luggage is right on the 30 kilogram limit imposed by the airlines.

Despite my intentions not to upgrade my Macbook Pro I finally crumbled and purchased the new model not long after my return from Antarctica in December last year. There are significant weight savings in the new model (as well as the much improved retina display) and these advantages finally swayed me to part with the cash and purchase the new model (GAS ‘Gear Acquisition Syndrome’ strikes again). It is funny how when you travel as much as I do you can quickly rationalise a new piece of expensive equipment just to save some weight. That said, I have very quickly become quite accustomed and fond of the Retina display. If NEC ever offer their current large wide gamut SpectraView monitors in a retina display I will be sorely tempted to upgrade – especially if they reach the magic 300 DPI number.

The Canon 1DX will remain my primary camera of choice for these trips. I will also carry a couple of spare batteries so that I can cycle them in and out of warm pockets. Experience has shown me that I can pretty much go an entire day without a battery change but I like to have spares on hand just in case. I did long ponder the idea of taking a camera with more mega pixels with me (particularly for Namibia) but I have ultimately decided that the quality of the pixels in the 1DX are more than good enough for my requirements. I have been making really wonderful 20 x 30 and 40 x 60 inch prints from Canon 1DX files and my agent recently sold a 24 x 100 inch print (also from a 1DX file) from Antarctica at his gallery in Aspen in the USA. Suffice to say the quality of the pixels makes a huge difference to the final output and the 1DX has truly fantastic pixels.

Gura Gear Bataflae 32L: (carry on luggage – Believe it or not this does all fit in the one camera bag!)

  • Canon EOS 1DX Pro Body Camera
  • Canon 17mm F4L TSE Lens
  • Canon 24mm F3.5L TSE MKII Lens
  • Canon 24-70mm F2.8L MKII Lens (The MKII version of this lens is an amazing piece of glass)
  • Canon 70-200mm F2.8L IS MKII Lens
  • Canon 600mm F4L IS MKII Lens
  • 1 x Spare Battery for the 1DX
  • Canon 1.4 TC MKIII Tele-Extender
  • Leica Ultra-Vid HD Binoculars
  • Cable Release and Bubble Level
  • Assorted CF and SD Cards totalling around 100 Gigabytes
  • Rocket Blower and Dust Cleaning paraphernalia
  • Complete LEE Foundation and Filter Kit with Soft and Hard ND Graduated filters and LEE Polariser – includes new LEE adapter for the Canon 17mm TSE Lens

I am carrying the two TSE lenses specifically for photography at Kolmanskop ghost town in Namibia. This abandoned town is the ideal location for Tilt and Shift lenses and I hope to put them to good use in this area. Although I am primarily carrying the 600m and 200-400mm lenses for the Arctic Foxes in Iceland I do hope to put these lenses to use for wildlife in Namibia at the end of our second workshop when we head into Erindi Wildlife Reserve on a short extension.

Gura Gear Chobe Bag: (carry on luggage)

  • 15″ Macbook Pro with Lightroom 5 and Photoshop CS6 with the Nik Plugin suite
  • MacBook Power Adapter
  • Canon 200-400mm F4L IS Lens with inbuilt 1.4 TC (Watch the Unboxing Video) This lens ‘just’ fits inside the Chobe!
  • 1 x LACIE Thunderbolt External 1TB Hard Drive for in the field Back Up.
  • Various Power Adapters / Chargers and Associated Cables
  • Canon 1DX / 1DS MK3 Battery  Charger
  • iPad Mini (e-books and movies for the long flights)
  • Sandisk USB CF and SD Card reader
  • Passport / iPhone / Wallet
  • A lot of these items I store inside Gura Gear Etcetera cases inside the Chobe. (These cases are fabulous for organising accessories)

North Face Thunder Rolling Duffle: (checked luggage)

  • Sorrel Caribou Winter Boots
  • 66º North Wet and Cold Weather Outer Shells
  • Arc’teryx Kappa and Atom LT Jackets
  • Devold Expedition Base Layers
  • Mid Layers – Trekking Pants and Tops
  • Light Weight Long Sleeve Shirts for Namibia
  • Gloves and Hat
  • Miscellaneous clothes
  • Micro Spikes
  • Sunhat
  • Personal items and toiletries – including Sunscreen

Tripod: (checked luggage)

  • Really Right TVC24L Tripod
  • Really Right Stuff BH-55 Ball Head
  • Really Right Stuff Tripod Spikes (For mossy ground and rock claws for ice and rock)
  • Jobo Jnr. Deluxe Gimbal Head with Really Right Stuff Dovetail Base Plate

The astute amongst you may have noticed that there is no back-up camera in the equipment listed above. Thankfully, I have access to a back-up 1DSMK3 in Iceland should I require it. There is a tendency across the internet these days for photographers to tout the virtue of travelling super light when flying internationally (often with micro four thirds systems or even mirror less camera systems). Whilst I admire these photographers for their ability to travel with slim light weight kits I confess that I personally prefer to haul my best quality lenses and cameras irrespective of their weight. After working with a pro video team in the Arctic last August even the above extensive list of gear would be considered light weight in the world of professional video. I thank the gods I am a still photographer. See you in Iceland.