Iceland – The Vatnajökull Glacier

It is perhaps not common knowledge that Europe’s largest glacier (the Vatnajökull) actually resides in Iceland. This massive glacier sits more or less in the centre of Iceland and has many different glacial tongues that snake down toward the coastline around its circumference. It is the Vatnajökull glacier that was responsible for the creation of the Jökulsárlón Glacial lagoon where ice that has carved off the glacier now wallows in a large lagoon before being washed out sea. This lagoon is perhaps Iceland’s most famous attraction and is one of the natural wonders of the world. It has become an icon and mecca amongst landscape photographers the world over. The glacier itself is sadly in rapid retreat and the carving face is now several miles back from the beach. On my trip to Iceland last year I attempted to walk to the carving face along the side of the lagoon but gave up after a few hours slog when I reached an impasse. The only viable way to reach the face near the lagoon is now via zodiac, which can be hired at great expense near the car park.  The glacier is nevertheless a remarkable subject for landscape photography and in many ways offers countless opportunities for composition with remarkable form and texture.

This particular photograph is my personal favorite from the glacier and was taken several years ago as I drove toward the lagoon from Reykjavik. A fog was descending across the glacier and I pulled the 4 wheel drive over to the side of the road where I took this image with the 70-200mm F2.8L IS lens at the 200mm end. I am hopeful that we will be able to get up to the glacier in a few weeks time during our winter workshops for some ice-cave photography.

Iceland Winter 2013 : Equipment Packing List

The New Year is already well and truly behind us and 2013 is marching forward at what seems an ever quickening pace. In a few weeks time Andy Biggs and I will be headed to Iceland for back-to-back Winter Aurora workshops with twenty four other keen photographers; which means it is time to start considering camera equipment and clothing for the month we are going to be in the ‘deep freeze’ of an Iceland Winter. There is always a temptation to pack too much in the way of clothing on these trips and I frequently find myself coming home with articles of unworn clothing. I will make an effort to pack less than usual this time as I tend to more or less live in the same set of clothes during these workshops; just changing my under clothes unless I get my outer layers wet or really dirty.

Clothing

It can get bitterly cold in Iceland during the winter months if the Arctic wind is up and as such a winter expedition requires more serious apparel than a summer trip. Regular readers of my blog will already be familiar with my outdoor clothing of choice from 66 North – Iceland’s own brand of outdoor adventure clothing. Originally I was attracted to 66 North because of its high quality construction and use of new and innovative materials such as e-Vent (an alternative to Goretex). I have subsequently found it high quality clothing (like all good outdoor clothing it is somewhat expensive) that I have come to rely on for all my polar and sub polar trips. As such I will take a good selection of my 66 North wardrobe with me in March including my favourite Eldgja jacket and Vatnajokull Outer Shell. In addition to my 66 North gear I am also taking a new Arc’teryx Kappa jacket for when the temperature really plummets. This is the first Arc’teryx jacket I have purchased and I am keen to see how it performs in the field.

Footwear

I am trying a new pair of Arctic Muck Boots this year that are waterproof to just below the knee and that are specifically designed for cold weather (rated to -40 degrees F). Made by the ‘Muck Company’ you would be forgiven for thinking that these appear to be nothing more than a glorified pair of gumboots. The reality however is that there has clearly been a lot of thought given to the design of this boot and it is in fact very different to your average pair of gumboots. That is not to say that this is a boot suitable for long hikes (because it clearly isn’t) but rather is ideal for standing around in sub zero temperatures photographing Aurora. I am combining these boots with a pair of Kahtoola micro-spikes to ensure I keep my footing on the icy winter landscape. Although these boots look heavy they are quite light considering their size and construction. I chose these particular boots over something more traditional like a Caribou as I wanted a boot that was waterproof to just below the knee making it also suitable for wet zodiac landings in the Arctic and Antarctic. I have in the passed persevered with the gumboots provided by the ship charter companies for my polar trips but I really find them uncomfortable and not at all to my liking.Whilst the Arctic Muck Boots should keep me both warm and dry in Iceland they are totally inappropriate for getting on an off airplanes and general travel and as such I will also take with me (and wear during my travels) my usual pair of Raichle Goretex hiking boots. These boots have served me very well and have now travelled all over the world. I am going to resist the temptation to also pack a pair of general runners as I am comfortable living in my hiking boots and shoes take up quite a lot of space in my bag.

Gloves

In the never-ending search for the ultimate cold weather photography glove I am trialling yet another new glove this year made by Freehands. The Freehands gloves are made of 4-way stretch material and are lined with Thinsulate insulation for warmth. They have a full digital palm grip and they provide waterproof/windproof protection for the back of the hand. The thumb and forefinger can be exposed for operation of camera controls. I have in the past tested gloves from Helly Hanson and Seal Skinz.  Whilst I like the Helly Hanson gloves very much for their tactical feel and maneuverability they are not waterproof and once wet my hands get quite cold. The Seal Skinz on the other hand are waterproof and quite warm but offer poor camera feel and control by comparison. I am hopeful that the Freehands gloves will finally prove the best combination of warmth and tactile feel for camera control whilst simultaneously being waterproof. My thanks to Terry who is joining Andy and I on our first workshop to Iceland for the referral and recommendation of these gloves. Should they prove successful I will also take them to the Arctic and Antarctic later this year. Freehands gloves can be purchased from B&H Photo online and are surprisingly inexpensive.

Camera Equipment

The Canon 1DX will be my primary camera of choice for this trip. I will also carry my original 1DS MK3 as a back-up in the unlikely event of a failure. I will also carry a number of spare batteries so that I can cycle them in and out of warm pockets. If Canon can supply me the new 200-400mm F4L IS with inbuilt 1.4 teleconverter before I depart (unlikely at this point) I will take it instead of the 300mm F2.8L IS lens.

During the 2nd workshop I will also have access to a Phase One 645DF and IQ160 60 mega pixel digital back and look forward to putting this state of the art digital medium format system to the test in the Iceland winter landscape. Stay tuned for some exciting news to come on Phase One in future posts.

Andy and I have our fingers crossed for some Aurora (northern lights) opportunities whilst we are in Iceland this March. The sun is at its peak of the eleven year solar cycle which should mean some blazing and spectacular Aurora if the skies are clear and conditions just right. It is going to be a lot of fun and I am very much looking forward to escaping the blistering heat of the Australian summer. It has only been a few months since my last Iceland workshop but I am already missing the countries amazing and ever changing landscape.

Antarctica : The Lemaire Channel

One of the most spectacular features of Antarctica we are looking forward to visiting on the expedition I am leading this November aboard the Polar Pioneer is the Lemaire Channel. This natural, narrow channel is flanked on both sides by high mountains and snow dusted rock spires and rates as one of the most wondrous and beautiful places I have ever had the pleasure to photograph. Slowly cruising through the channel is akin to what I imagine it would be like aboard a space ship gliding between towering and precipitous mountains on an alien world. Whether you are on the bow, aft, port or starboard the landscape is equally awe inspiring and impressive. On my last trip the conditions were overcast with frequent heavy snow and dark brooding clouds as we made our way slowly through the channel. Whilst a few photographers were bemoaning the lack of clear skies for sunset colour I was secretly thankful for the dark and ominous atmosphere. Antarctica is so often depicted for its brilliance that I find it refreshing to see images that depict a more ominous and portentous landscape.Frequently clogged with icebergs and pack ice the channel is really only safely navigable  early in the season in an ice hardened expedition class ship such as the Polar Pioneer. Later in the season when the weather warms and the ice thins the channel is frequently visited by larger tourist based cruise ships; although the danger of ice bergs to their thin steel skin always remains. One of the real benefits of a photographic expedition to Antarctica aboard an ice hardened ship is the ability to not only get close to very large icebergs, but also to push pack ice out of the way greatly increasing the photographic possibilities in locations such as the Lemaire Channel. Although passage through the Lemaire Channel is never guranteed we do plan to sail through it (weather and ice conditions permitting) this November. I am secretly hoping for more dramatic weather and evocative atmospherics.

X-Rite Interview – Photographing Icebergs and More

The good folks at X-Rite have posted a short five minute audio interview on their blog I did with them a few weeks ago as part of their Coloratti program.

Coloratti Josh Holko is our newest member of the Coloratti program from Melbourne, Australia.  Josh is an accomplished nature photographer and workshop leader. He received word this month that his photographs of Antarctica have made set him as a finalist in 2012 Outdoor Photographer of the Year. Already an award winning photographer Josh’s blog says, “I feel I have been very fortunate this year as I was also a finalist and highly commended with 3rd place in the Travel Photographer of the Year ‘Single Shot Water Category’ and was a finalist in the ‘Fine Art Photographer of the Year’ competition in Paris a few months ago.”

We caught up with Josh a few weeks ago to talk about his photography and yes, I admit it,  to enjoy his lovely Aussie accent! You have to hear about his thoughts on “luxury shooting” in his workshops.

Visit the X-Rite blog for the complete interview.

Happy New Year and Happy Holidays!

I would like to thank all the readers and followers of my blog, those who have purchased prints and workshop participants for your continued support throughout 2012. I wish all of you a very happy and safe New Year and all the very best for 2013. 2013 is going to be another busy year with more new features in the pipeline for my website and blog, and even more new and exciting photographic travels. If you are travelling with me in 2013 on one or more of my workshops or expeditions I look forward to shooting together in some of the world’s most beautiful and remote locations. I have some really exciting announcements I hope to be able to make early in the new year, not the least of which includes a new partnership and surprise guest on the expedition I am leading with Daniel Bergmann to Antarctica in November. More to come on this very shortly suffice to say for now that there is going to be over a quarter of a million dollars worth of high-end digital camera gear on board for everyone to freely use and try out throughout the expedition.2013 also marks the first time a dedicated film production crew will be accompanying me to film an expedition. Abraham Joffe and his team from ‘Untitled Film Works’ will travel with me on the 2nd Jewels of the Arctic expedition I am co-leading with Peter Eastway and have been secured with the task of producing a short video of the trip. This is going to be a great experience and I am looking forward very much to sharing the video on our return. There are actually still a few places remaining on both of these Arctic expeditions for anyone who would like to join us. We are looking forward to Polar Bears, grazing Reindeer, Walrus, Icebergs, precipitous granite spires, mountains and more.I am working feverishly on finalising the 2014 Iceland workshops and hope to have these ready for bookings before leaving for Iceland with Andy Biggs for our Winter Workshops in March. Interest for the 2014 trips has already been very high so please drop me an email if you are interested and I will notify you with details before I officially open the bookings.

To those of you who have expressed an interest in the 2014 Namibia trip with Andy Biggs we are getting close to finalising details and likewise hope to have everything in place before we head for our winter workshops in Iceland next March.Whatever you’re doing today, enjoy yourselves and thank you for your support over the last year. Roll on 2013!