It is hard to believe it has already been two years since I was last camped on the sea ice of Gould Bay in Antarctica to photograph the mighty Emperor Penguins (Read the Trip Report). Time has simply evaporated and in less than two days now I am really excited to again be starting the trek over to the bottom of South America to begin my 2018 expedition to the Emperor Penguins. Camping and living with the Emperors on the sea ice is one of the most amazing experiences I have been fortunate to have in my photographic travels. Like the previous expedition we will be flying down to land on the naturally occurring blue ice runaway at Union Glacier. From there will be taking a smaller twin-otter aircraft several hours out to the sea ice where we can establish a remote tent camp.

I am planning to try and shoot a bit of video this trip and will be taking a new Go Pro Hero 7 Black as well as an extra Canon EOS1DX MKII (just for video) as well as a dedicated microphone. I don’t pretend to be a videographer and I wont be shooting the sequel or follow up to Ghosts of the Arctic, but I would like to capture enough video to show just what its like to camp with the Emperor Penguins on the frozen sea ice in Antarctica.

My equipment for the Emperors expedition will be all too familiar to those of you who regularly follow my travels, workshops and expeditions. I am teaming up with a friend of mine for the video component (who is also a Canon shooter) so between us we will have just about everything covered. I will re-pack my camera gear on arrival into Punta Arenas into a back pack that will travel down to South America in my checked luggage. If you are wondering why the 300mm 2.8 and 400mm 2.8 its so I can share both lenses with the other Canon shooters.
Lightroom Roller(Carry on Luggage)
2 x Canon EOS 1DX MKII bodies (my friend is bringing a third for video)
1 x Canon 16-35mm F4L Lens
1 x Canon 11-24mm f4L Lens
1 x Canon 24-70mm F4L IS Lens
1 x Canon 70-200mm F2.8L MKII IS Lens
1 x Canon 400mm F2/8L IS MKII Lens
1 x Go Pro Hero7 Black w/ various accessories and spares
1 x Rhode Microphone
Gura Gear Chobe (Carry on Luggage)
1 x Apple MacBook Pro 15″ Retina
1 x Apple laptop charger
1 x Canon 300mm F2.8L MKII IS Lens
2 x USB 3 2TB external portable Sandisk SSD Drives
1 x Thunderbolt CFast card reader and CF card Reader
1 x Sunglasses and sunglasses case
Etcetera Case #1 (Inside checked luggage)
1 x Canon 1-Series camera charger
1 x Power Adapter
2 x Canon 1DX spare Batteries
3 x Go Pro Spare Batteries
Other #1 (Inside checked luggage)
1 x Sachtler Flowtech 75 Carbon Tripod
1 x Sachtler FSB-6 Fluid Head
I had thought that this would be my last expedition to the Emperor Penguins but due to multiple requests I am confirming that I will have another expedition to the sea ice of Gould Bay for Emperors in November of 2020 (exact dates TBA – but it will be going ahead with several spots already spoken for). For those of you keen to get the jump and pre-register you can drop me an email to secure one of the remaining places. For now, I am keen to get my final packing done and get the long haul travel out of the way.

There will be minimal to no updates (other than a couple of scheduled posts) whilst I am in Antartica as there is no internet access out on the sea ice. Camped on the sea ice of Gould Bay we are about as remote and disconnected from civilisation as its possible to be. See you in South America and then onward to Antarctica!
If you want to photograph Polar Bears like this up in the pack ice in their natural environment then there are now only three places left on my 


This year we had to go well north of 82º degrees to reach the edge of the permanent pack ice, with our northerly most position being 82.5º north according to the GPS in my Canon EOS 1DX MKII (less than 900 nautical miles from the North Pole). This was the farthest north I have ever had to travel to reach the edge of the ice and was a clear indication of just how rapid and how devastating the summer melt has been this year. As tragic as it sounds, I believe we may now be less than a decade away from an ice free summer in the Arctic. What this means for the Polar Bear remains to be seen; but one thing is for sure, without sea ice to hunt the future of the Polar Bear is in serious question.
We were lucky to experience favourable weather for photography during our expedition, encountering only minimal fog and only a small amount of swell on our journey north to the ice. One of my biggest fears for weather in Svalbard at this time of year is zero visibility because of giant fog banks. Whilst I love fog and find it extremely photogenic it can also be massively problematic in Svalbard in summer. Finding bears in the ice is extremely difficulty with good visibility; finding them in heavy fog is just about impossible. My other fear for weather is ‘blue sky days’ which creates contrast that is just far too strong for artful photography. Thankfully we experienced only a couple of blue sky days with the majority of days during our expedition being heavily overcast; making for superb photographic conditions.
This year we were extremely fortunate with our bear encounters; encountering a total of eighteen bears during our ten day expedition. Our first encounter was at the island Karl the XII (on our way north to the ice) where we found five bears stranded south of the ice on the small island. Whilst this was an easy tick for five bears for those who had never seen a Polar bear before the photo opportunities were not the best. I find Polar bears on land to be not the most photogenic of subjects and very much prefer to photograph them on the ice in their prime. Fortunately, the majority of the rest of the bears we encountered turned out to be fantastic photo bears with wonderful close encounters around our vessel in the ice. Several of the bears came right up to the ship to satisfy their curiosity and we were able to spend many hours of fabulous photography with these apex predators.
In addition to bears on the ice we also had two encounters with Polar Bear cubs during our expedition. The first was with a mother and two very young cubs at the base of one of the main bird cliffs in Hinlopen Strait and the second was in Kongsfjord near the site of an Arctic Fox den. Both encounters were very emotional moments for all aboard. Small cubs (born this year) are not only extremely cute (and photogenic), but are walking emotional reminders of how fragile life is in the Arctic. Seeing young cubs gives me hope that the Polar bear may yet have a viable future.
During our time in Svalbard we also explored the Kongsfjord system where we encountered Arctic Fox, Bearded Seals and a great many of the Arctic bird species found in this part of Svalbard including the Pomarine jaeger (Stercorarius pomarinus), pomarine skua. This was only the second time I have had such a great opportunity to photograph this bird in the Arctic. In terms of bird life we also had fantastic Ivory gulls up in the ice as well as a great many others during the expedition including Puffins, Glaucous Gulls, Eider ducks, Snow Buntings, Guillemots, Purple Sandpipers, Fulmars and more. We also spent many hours cruising the ice filled bays and glacier fronts which offer limitless opportunities for landscape photography – both the grand landscape and the intimate scene. Watching ice carvings from the many glacier fronts from the safety of our zodiac is a real experience not to be missed.
Lastly, we rounded out our expedition with several hours of photography of some extremely playful Arctic Fox cubs on our return to Longyearbyen. This location also provided a much welcomed opportunity to photograph Reindeer against some spectacular landscape backdrops. All up, our 2018 expedition to Svalbard was a fantastic success with outstanding opportunities for wildlife and landscape photography.
I have been travelling to Svalbard several times a year since 2013 and it remains one of the most incredible and photogenic locations in the Arctic I have been fortunate to visit and photograph. I will be returning to Svalbard next summer in July for my 