I don’t think it matters how many times you do the same long haul international flight as it never seems to get any easier or less painful. Even though I was able to co-ordinate my flights to avoid any really horrendous layovers in Dubai or London I didn’t get much sleep on the flights over here and as soon as I finish this blog post I am going to crawl into bed and catch some shut eye so I am fresh and rested for day one of my winter workshop. It is fantastic to be back in Iceland in Winter and I am super keen to get underway tomorrow. We have a really fantastic group of twelve participants on this workshop and Daniel and I have some incredible locations lined up for photography over the next ten days. We will be headed North to some lesser known locations initially as we make our way around the top of the Island before we drop down to some of the more well known locations such as the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon in the south. The weather forecast is looking good for the next few days in the north (storms in the South East) and we are hopeful for some Aurora Borealis (Northern lights) during the evenings. It is going to be a blast and if time permits I will post some updates to my blog and Facebook as we travel around the Island. But right now its time for sleep….
Category: Workshops and Expeditions
Workshops and Expeditions around the world.
New Zealand South Island Summer Workshop Report
Late last week I returned home from a brand new Summer workshop to the South Island of New Zealand with my good friend Phillip Bartlett. Our workshop took us on a photographic journey into ‘Middle Earth’ – The spectacular South Island of New Zealand. In case you have not seen the Lord of the Rings movies, the South Island of New Zealand is home to some of the most spectacular scenery and landscapes in the world. It is no co-incidence that Peter Jackson chose the South Island of New Zealand to film the Hobbit and the Lord of the Rings movies. Perhaps nowhere else in the world can one see and photograph precipitous alpine mountains plunging into temperate rain forest and wild ocean beaches in so short a space. New Zealand is home to an incredibly diverse range of subject matter in a small island. Glaciers, waterfalls, spectacular valleys, imposing mountain ranges and black pebble beaches. It is an island of ever changing weather and spectacular light conditions. It is a country made for photography.
Our workshop took us on an eleven night / twelve day odyssey around the South Island to many of its iconic locations and some of its lesser known gems. During our travels we experienced some incredible weather and light as well as some fantastic landscape and wildlife photography opportunities. Two of the main highlights of this workshop included a privately chartered helicopter flight with the doors removed for photography over Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers and the awe inspiring Southern Alps and a privately chartered boat in Kaikoura to photograph Albatross and playful Dusky Dolphins. Both of these experiences were regarded by all on this trip as once in a lifetime and not to be missed. Included below is a brief summary of our travel and photography during our time in the South Island.
Day One – We began our workshop in Christchurch in two large 4-wheel drive vehicles that were to be our transport around the island for the next twelve days. One of the real benefits of travelling by 4-wheel drive instead of bus is the ability to get off the beaten path and into more remote locations and we certainly took advtange of this ability during our travels. Our first stop was Mount Cook on the East side of the Island where we photographed New Zealand’s tallest mountain against a sunset backdrop and some dramatic evening light and cloud.
Day Two – We rose early for Sunrise in the Tasman Valley where we had wonderful views looking back up the river to Mount Cook. Sunrise in the Tasman Valley can be an incredible experience if the weather is co-operating and we were fortunate to have some beautiful pre-dawn light during our morning shoot. After our morning session and breakfast we took advantage of our 4-wheel drives off road capability and went off roading up to the terminal face of the Tasman Glaicer where we scaled one of the large lateral moraines for spectacular views across the glacier. We returned in the evening and photographed sunset at the edge of the lake at Tasman Glacier.
Day Three – Day three saw us depart Mount Cook before dawn and head south toward Queenstown. Along the way we stopped to photograph sunrise at Lake Pukaiki with some incredibly spectacular light – quite literally one of the most breathtaking sunrises I have ever exeperienced. The southern shore of Lake Pukaiki is a fantastic location for photography as the waterline is dotted with giant boulders that lie partially submerged and make for wonderful foreground subject. In the distance Mount Cook can be seen illuminated with Alpine Glow. We spent several hours in this location basking in the incredible light and conditions.
After breakfast we also stopped to photograph dramatic storm clouds at Ahuriri on our way to Queenstown. My thanks to my co-leader Phillip for spotting the clouds in his rear vision mirror! This area of New Zealand offers a myriad of photographic opportunities with dramatic cloud cover and we spent an hour photographing the racing clouds in this location. Midday is often a time for driving between locations and usually not the ideal time for landscape photography. Every once in a while however the clouds and light combine to provide fantastic midday landscape opportunities.
After our midday shooting session we continued to Queenstown where we photographed Lake Wakatipu against the backdrop of the spectacular Remarkables mountain range. Queenstown was also a chance to stock up on snacks and souvenirs for those who wished to take home some nick-nacks.
Day Four – We rose again well before sunrise and travelled south to Glenorchy for sunrise at the edge of Lake Wakatipu. This part of Lake Wakitpu is home to some small Willow trees set against the mountains and makes for a great location for landscape photography. After breakfast we headed off road again up to the Routeburn where we photographed the forest, waterfalls and mountains in misty cloud by the shore of the river. New Zealand’s rivers are spectacularly pure and clean and I spotted several wild trout swimming slowly against the current whilst photographing in this area. At sunset we photographed in Queenstown at the shore of Lake Wakatipu with the Remarkabes mountain range as our backdrop.
Day Five – We again headed off road in our 4-wheel drives to a high vantage point for sunrise known as Skipper’s Canyon. Skippers Canyon looks down a valley into rural farmland and is an opportunity to capture long shadows and low hanging cloud and fog in the valley below. We were fortunate to have a perfect morning for this type of landscape photography with low cloud and fog hugging the trees in the valley below us.
After breakfast We travelled to Milford Sound, one of the icons of the South Island, and photographed the mountains at sunset by the shoreline in misty conditions.
Day Six – We photographed Milford Sound at Dawn and then took a boat cruise up the Sound where we photographed cloud swirling around the mountains and the waterfalls cascading down into the sound. Milford Sound is truly an amazing location with dramatic peaks that plunge for hundreds of metres into the water below. This entire area was once glaciated and the Sound is what now remains as a result of the glacier carving its way through the mountains. Milford sound has a great deal to offer in the way of Wildlife photography as well as landscape and I took this photograph of a white Heron whilst ankle deep in the inky black water near the shoreline (I did have to fight with the local and rather irritating sand flies to make this photograph!).
After our cruise up Milford Sound we drove to Wanaka where we photographed another iconic New Zealand location – the Lone Willow tree.
Day Seven – Sunrise we photographed at lake Wanaka amongst the boulders in soft pastel light before driving to Fox Glacier. Fox Glacier is one of my favourite locations in the South Island. This small town boasts easy access to Fox Glacier and is the main hub for helicopter flights over the glaciers and alps. It also provides easy access to Gillespie’s beach where we had drizzly rain combined with dramatic cloud at sunset. The west coast beaches of New Zealand can be notoriously wild with their steep pebble beaches and large breaking waves. In this instance we were fortunate to have little in the way of wind and some dark brooding clouds that made for some very moody images.
Day Eight – We took a pre-dawn hike to Lake Matheson for a viewpoint looking up to the Southern Alps. On a clear morning the southern alps can be seen reflected in the dark water of Lake Matheson and the well known viewpoint makes for an iconic photograph when conditions are right. After breakfast we photographed in the Goblin forest at the base of Fox Glacier. The forest at the base of the southern Alps is akin to a scene straight from the Lord of the Rings. The forest is full of old gnarled trees draped with vines and wonderful foliage. We took the opportunity to do some macro work for several hours under the dense canopy in misty rain. These sort of conditions are ideal for forest photography with the cloud over head acting as a giant softbox and the rain ensuring the greens of the forest are very saturated.
Day Nine – We rose early and took a chartered helicopter flight with the doors removed for photography over the Southern Alps in spectacular conditions. We photographed Fox Glacier, Franz Josef Glacier, Mount Cook and Mount Tasman in fantastic conditions. We were blessed with swirling moody cloud and breaking light dancing amongst the ice formations and mountains. Click on the image below to be taken to the RAW HD video footage from our aerial photography flight over the Southern Alps.
After our helicopter flight we drove north along the spectacular west coast to Punakaiki and photographed Pancake Rocks at Sunset. This location is one of the more easily accessed in the South Island and comprises of unusual layered pancake like rock formations that feature several blow holes. Large rolling swells crash against the rocks and throw spray high into the air that often catches the last golden rays of sunset.
Day Ten – We photographed sunrise at nearby Truman Beach in soft dawn pastel light before packing up and driving to the seaside town of Kaikoura on the East coast. We photographed at sunset on the rocks in the bay.
Day Eleven – Day eleven proved one of the real highlights of the trip as we took a private boat charter out to photograph Albatross and playful Dusky Dolphins at sunrise.
We also discovered a sperm whale at first light and a few of us captured this magical moment before the whale sounded and was gone. Having our own private boat meant we had plenty of space for photography and we were able to move and follow the Albatross and Dolphins as we wished.
After breakfast we spent time photographing Sea Lions and sea Lion pups on the rocks north of Kaikoura. These Sea Lions (often incorrectly referred to as seals) are quite approachable and as long as you don’t get closer than about fifteen feet they are quite comfortable to pose for photographs as they bask on the rocks in the sun. January and February are great times for photographing the sea lions as the more aggressive bull males have moved on and the pups are curious for all things and often approach quite closely to investigate.
Day Twelve – Saw us travelling from Kaikoura to Christchurch and completing our twelve day odyssey around the South Island.
The photographs above are just a very small sampling of the more than one thousand images I made during this workshop. As yet, I have not had time to sort, edit and process the vast majority and as I am leaving for Iceland in a few days for my annual winter workshop I will not have time to really devote to them until later this year. This was a very successful workshop and some fabulous photography resulted from all who participated. Our days were very long as we rose well before sunrise each morning and shot until after sunset each evening but we certainly made the most of all the locations we visited and opportunities that presented themselves to us.
Phillip and I will be leading another workshop to the South Island of New Zealand in May next year – May 2nd to May 13th 2015. This workshop will include even more aerial photography in privately chartered helicopters at areas including Milford Sound, Fjordlands and Fox Glacier and the Southern Alps. We will even be using helicopters to land us high in the Alps amongst the glacial seracs for a chance to set up our tripods and photograph these incredible formations as well as visiting and photographing areas inaccessible by 4-wheel drive. We will be limiting this workshop to just six photographers and It is going to be a very exciting trip. Look for details here on my blog and on my website in the coming months.
I will also be opening bookings in the next few days for my annual Winter Aurora workshop to Iceland with Daniel Bergmann in late February / early March next year. Our 2014 Winter workshop sold out in just a few days this year so if you would like to reserve a place or have any question about the trip please drop me an email at info@jholko.com.
Testimonial from Sam Krisch – Antarctica 2013
In 2013 I traveled twice with Joshua Holko and Daniel Bergmann: To Iceland and to Antarctica. I am a veteran of many photography tours and workshops. I have experienced both the best–and the not-so-best–of trip leaders and instructors.
Joshua and Daniel do their utmost to make sure that all of the participants have the best photographic experience. They are always available for questions and help for those that need it. They have the sensitivity to enable those participants who do not like or prefer instruction to get the maximum image-making opportunities.
While they are exceptional, inspirational photographers themselves, they always put their own work on location on hold for others. I will be glad to travel with them again and highly recommend that others enjoy the high quality tours they operate. I would rank them as two of the best anywhere. Sam Krisch – www.samkrisch.com
Better Photography Magazine – The Jewels of the Arctic Report by Peter Eastway
One of the real pleasures of 2013 for me was having Grand Master of Photography Peter Eastway co-lead the Jewels of the Arctic expedition last August to Greenland and Svalbard. Peter is one of the most accomplished, awarded and respected landscape photographers working today and it was fantastic to be able to work with him during this expedition. On top of being a landscape photographer Peter is also owner and editor of Australia’s Better Photography Magazine. He recently documented our journey through the Arctic for the Summer 2014 issue and has generously allowed me to release the article here as a PDF for download. Be sure to visit Better Photography and subscribe for future articles and issues.
Just in case you missed it – Be sure to watch the short film produced by my good friends at Untitled Film Works of our experiences in the Arctic. Make sure you watch it full screen in glorious 1080p High Definition!
For those of you who have already enquired about the expedition I will be leading in July 2015 to Photograph Polar Bears I will be opening bookings in the next few days. This expedition will be limited to just twelve photographers and there are preliminary details on my website in the WORKSHOPS section.
2013 A Retrospective & 2014 Whats in Store?
This will be my last blog post for 2013 and as has become traditional I like to reflect back on the year that was and also look forward to what is in store for the coming year. 2013 was my busiest year ever in terms of sheer miles travelled. I have no idea how many miles I covered in total, how many aeroplanes I boarded, how many times I went through airport security or how many tens of hours I spent waiting around in airports for connecting flights, but it was a lot – an awful lot. There have been moments during lengthy airport layovers when I have questioned the wisdom of choosing polar photography as a speciality (especially since I live in Australia). The flip side being I have such a love and passion of photography in the Polar regions that I could not ever imagine doing anything else. Airport layovers are therefore nothing more than an unfortunate means to a much loved end.
2013 began in earnest for me back in in March when I lead back-to-back workshops to Iceland in with my good friends Andy Biggs and Daniel Bergmann. These were brilliant trips with a real mix of traditional Icelandic weather and light. We were fortunate to experience more than a few days of Aurora Borealis during the first workshop that made for some stellar (pardon the pun) photography. Iceland is an incredible country in winter; snow blankets the land, the waterfalls partially freeze, and the normally colourful land takes on a more monochromatic pallet. Whilst the weather can be brutal in winter the rewards for those willing to brave the elements can be equally amazing.
After Iceland I travelled to the remote north west of China and the Gobi desert in April with my good friend Antony Watson on a scouting trip for a possible future workshop to this area. At our most northerly point we were only around 60 kilometres from the Russian and Kazakstan borders and we did encounter some incredible landscape and had some memorable experiences. Logistically this was my most challenging trip of the year and I wrote quite extensively on my experiences in China on my return (Read the Report). There are only a few places in the world I have travelled that I have no desire to return. China is perhaps unfortunately at the very top of that list with its and utter contempt for its environment and horrendous industrial pollution.
In July I travelled back to Iceland and guided a highly successful Summer Workshop with Daniel Bergmann before heading to the Arctic to photograph Polar Bears. This expedition to photograph Polar Bears was one of the real highlights of the year for me personally and I will soon be announcing a new trip that will return to the permanent pack ice north of Svalbard in late July 2015 to photograph Polar Bears. This expedition will be limited to just twelve photographers and is sure to be a once in a lifetime experience. With the arctic sea ice shrinking fast and the number of Polar Bears dwindling the number of years left to photograph these incredible animals is unfortunately very limited. I will have more to say about this new expedition here on my blog early next year. For now, here is a brief teaser.
On returning to Longyearbyen I then lead two back-to-back expeditions to Svalbard and Greenland (Read the Report). We explored many of the fjords in Greenland and encountered everything from Arctic Hare, Blue and Fin Whales, Bearded Seals to Polar Bear and Musk Ox. We also saw and photographed some amazing icebergs. During my time in the Arctic I also produced a short film in conjunction with Untitled Film Works on what it was like to travel on a dedicated photographic expedition. Our travels around Svalbard and Greenland yielded us some incredible footage and I am very pleased with the video we produced. Be sure to click on the image below to watch in High Definition.

In November I travelled to Antarctica (Read the Report) to lead an expedition with Daniel Begmann to the great white continent. Antarctica is a miraculous place – a continent of stark and beautiful desolation and I never tire of returning to this incredible continent. It is the closest experience I think most of us will ever get to travelling to another planet. On this expedition we had some stunning light including a passage through the Lemaire Channel that was unforgettable. Reflecting on the year that just passed this single day of photography was probably the stand out highlight for me personally (as many others who were aboard have also indicated). I have already seen some incredible photography emerge from many of the participants on this expedition and I am looking forward to some in depth image reviews with those participants who are travelling with me again in 2014.
After Antarctica my friend Martyn, Daniel and I journeyed to the Chile side of Patagonia where we spent a week exploring the park by hire car. Our time in Patagonia was somewhat hampered by the relentless wind that Patagonia is notorious for delivering and an unfortunate lack of dramatic light.
The highlight of our trip to this part of Patagonia was stumbling across a den of Patagonian Grey Fox cubs, which we spent several hours photographing. We also hiked up to the base of the Towers of Pain – A rather arduous sustained steep hike of approximately twenty kilometres. On the whole I found Patagonia spectacular in terms of scenery, but quite a challenging location to photograph. Had we experienced more dramatic light with less wind I would likely have a different impression. I hope to return to Patagonia on the Argentinian side late in 2014 and have my fingers crossed for better light.
2014 kicks off for me in just a couple of weeks in mid January when I will travel to the South Island of New Zealand to complete a week long assignment in Kaikoura. This was a project I was supposed to complete late 2013 before I travelled to Antarctica and Patagonia but I succumbed to pneumonia and instead spent the better part of a month recovering. After this assignment I will return home for a short time before I fly back to the South Island to guide a two week long photography expedition. The itinerary we have planned for this trip is very exciting and I am very much looking forward to our time in the South Island. On this workshop we are looking forward to a privately chartered helicopter flight over the alps with the doors removed for photography as well as a private charter to photograph Dusky Dolphins. We will also be circumnavigating the island and visiting many of its wondrous locations. To those of you who have enquired about joining this trip in the last month I apologise but it is completely sold out.
In March I will be leading my annual Iceland winter workshop with Daniel Bergmann. We have a new itinerary for 2014 that takes us into the North to some of the more remote locations accessible in winter. I always look forward to returning to Iceland in winter. Although my favourite place in Iceland (the Highlands) is all but inaccessible during the winter months there is a starkness and harshness to the coastal environment that is extremely appealing and incredibly photogenic. This 2014 workshop is sold out, but I will soon be announcing dates for 2015 for those of you who wish to book early to avoid missing out. After we complete our March workshop I am going to stay on in Iceland for another week in the north where I intend to spend my time looking for and photographing Arctic foxes for a long term project I am working on. I am then going to abandon the winter expedition clothing and fly directly to Africa to lead to back-to-back workshops in Namibia with Andy Biggs. Namibia is a long time dream of mine and it should be very interesting experience to go from the Arctic winter of Iceland to the oldest desert dunes in the world. Our Namibia safari is overland so we will be travelling in four wheel drives between our planned shooting locations. Travelling by land between locations gives us a lot of flexibility in terms of when we can stop. It also allows us to avoid the limiting weight restrictions of light planes and bring everything we need. The second workshop is sold out but there is still one place remaining on the first trip if you are interested in joining us.
In July I will head back to Iceland for back-to-back summer workshops with Daniel Bergmann that will see us circumnavigating the island. Summer is my favourite time to visit Iceland with access to Landmannalaugar and the spectacular highland regions. The first trip is sold out but there are still two places remaining on the second trip if you would like to join us. This new itinerary for 2014 sees us circumnavigating the island and visiting many of Iceland’s landscape treasures.
From Iceland I am travelling further north to Longyearbyen to lead two expeditions to Svalbard and Greenland with my friend Antony Watson. These expeditions ‘The Jewels of the Arctic‘ take in the best of Svalbard and Greenland. These ship based expeditions to the Arctic are the best way to see and photograph the incredible landscape and geology found in this part of the world. Travelling by ship in the Arctic is not without its challenges but the ability to navigate the many fjords and explore the wild coastlines of this region make the sea days worth the effort.
On return to Australia I will have some downtime before I head back to Ushuaia in South America for a once in a lifetime expedition to South Georgia Island and Antarctica with Andy Biggs. This twenty one day expedition promises to have both incredible wildlife and landscape opportunities. Although I have been to Antarctica multiple times I have not as yet visited South Georgia Island and this is an experience I am very much looking forward to. We are close to sold out now on this expedition so if you are interested in joining please contact either myself or Andy.
On return to Ushuaia I will have just over a week of free time when I hope to explore the Argentinian side of Patagonia – this time with dramatic light! I will then lead one last expedition for the year to the Antarctic Peninsula with my friend Antony Watson. It is going to be a big year for airline miles (even bigger than 2013) and I am looking forward to getting underway. To those of you with whom I was fortunate to travel with this year I want to say thank you for sharing the adventure and making it a memorable year. To those of you with whom I am looking forward to travelling with in 2014 I look forward to sharing in some incredible experiences. I also want to say thank you to my readers and those of you who follow my photography and blog – thank you.
Over the course of the year I published my favourite twelve photographs here on my blog. Please be sure to check them out and let me know what you think. It is always hard to pick an overall favourite but I think this year I have clear personal favourite and it is is this photograph from Antarctica of Gentoo Penguins marching across the sea ice in front of giant icebergs under soft polar light.
Lastly, I want to wish all of you a very safe and happy New Year and may 2014 be one of amazing light and experiences for all of you.
