Iceland – The Vatnajökull Glacier

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It is perhaps not common knowledge that Europe’s largest glacier (the Vatnajökull) actually resides in Iceland. This massive glacier sits more or less in the centre of Iceland and has many different glacial tongues that snake down toward the coastline around its circumference. It is the Vatnajökull glacier that was responsible for the creation of the Jökulsárlón Glacial lagoon where ice that has carved off the glacier now wallows in a large lagoon before being washed out sea. This lagoon is perhaps Iceland’s most famous attraction and is one of the natural wonders of the world. It has become an icon and mecca amongst landscape photographers the world over. The glacier itself is sadly in rapid retreat and the carving face is now several miles back from the beach. On my trip to Iceland last year I attempted to walk to the carving face along the side of the lagoon but gave up after a few hours slog when I reached an impasse. The only viable way to reach the face near the lagoon is now via zodiac, which can be hired at great expense near the car park.  The glacier is nevertheless a remarkable subject for landscape photography and in many ways offers countless opportunities for composition with remarkable form and texture.

This particular photograph is my personal favorite from the glacier and was taken several years ago as I drove toward the lagoon from Reykjavik. A fog was descending across the glacier and I pulled the 4 wheel drive over to the side of the road where I took this image with the 70-200mm F2.8L IS lens at the 200mm end. I am hopeful that we will be able to get up to the glacier in a few weeks time during our winter workshops for some ice-cave photography.

Iceland Winter 2013 : Equipment Packing List

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The New Year is already well and truly behind us and 2013 is marching forward at what seems an ever quickening pace. In a few weeks time Andy Biggs and I will be headed to Iceland for back-to-back Winter Aurora workshops with twenty four other keen photographers; which means it is time to start considering camera equipment and clothing for the month we are going to be in the ‘deep freeze’ of an Iceland Winter. There is always a temptation to pack too much in the way of clothing on these trips and I frequently find myself coming home with articles of unworn clothing. I will make an effort to pack less than usual this time as I tend to more or less live in the same set of clothes during these workshops; just changing my under clothes unless I get my outer layers wet or really dirty.

Clothing

It can get bitterly cold in Iceland during the winter months if the Arctic wind is up and as such a winter expedition requires more serious apparel than a summer trip. Regular readers of my blog will already be familiar with my outdoor clothing of choice from 66 North – Iceland’s own brand of outdoor adventure clothing. Originally I was attracted to 66 North because of its high quality construction and use of new and innovative materials such as e-Vent (an alternative to Goretex). I have subsequently found it high quality clothing (like all good outdoor clothing it is somewhat expensive) that I have come to rely on for all my polar and sub polar trips. As such I will take a good selection of my 66 North wardrobe with me in March including my favourite Eldgja jacket and Vatnajokull Outer Shell. In addition to my 66 North gear I am also taking a new Arc’teryx Kappa jacket for when the temperature really plummets. This is the first Arc’teryx jacket I have purchased and I am keen to see how it performs in the field.

Footwear

I am trying a new pair of Arctic Muck Boots this year that are waterproof to just below the knee and that are specifically designed for cold weather (rated to -40 degrees F). Made by the ‘Muck Company’ you would be forgiven for thinking that these appear to be nothing more than a glorified pair of gumboots. The reality however is that there has clearly been a lot of thought given to the design of this boot and it is in fact very different to your average pair of gumboots. That is not to say that this is a boot suitable for long hikes (because it clearly isn’t) but rather is ideal for standing around in sub zero temperatures photographing Aurora. I am combining these boots with a pair of Kahtoola micro-spikes to ensure I keep my footing on the icy winter landscape. Although these boots look heavy they are quite light considering their size and construction. I chose these particular boots over something more traditional like a Caribou as I wanted a boot that was waterproof to just below the knee making it also suitable for wet zodiac landings in the Arctic and Antarctic. I have in the passed persevered with the gumboots provided by the ship charter companies for my polar trips but I really find them uncomfortable and not at all to my liking.Whilst the Arctic Muck Boots should keep me both warm and dry in Iceland they are totally inappropriate for getting on an off airplanes and general travel and as such I will also take with me (and wear during my travels) my usual pair of Raichle Goretex hiking boots. These boots have served me very well and have now travelled all over the world. I am going to resist the temptation to also pack a pair of general runners as I am comfortable living in my hiking boots and shoes take up quite a lot of space in my bag.

Gloves

In the never-ending search for the ultimate cold weather photography glove I am trialling yet another new glove this year made by Freehands. The Freehands gloves are made of 4-way stretch material and are lined with Thinsulate insulation for warmth. They have a full digital palm grip and they provide waterproof/windproof protection for the back of the hand. The thumb and forefinger can be exposed for operation of camera controls. I have in the past tested gloves from Helly Hanson and Seal Skinz.  Whilst I like the Helly Hanson gloves very much for their tactical feel and maneuverability they are not waterproof and once wet my hands get quite cold. The Seal Skinz on the other hand are waterproof and quite warm but offer poor camera feel and control by comparison. I am hopeful that the Freehands gloves will finally prove the best combination of warmth and tactile feel for camera control whilst simultaneously being waterproof. My thanks to Terry who is joining Andy and I on our first workshop to Iceland for the referral and recommendation of these gloves. Should they prove successful I will also take them to the Arctic and Antarctic later this year. Freehands gloves can be purchased from B&H Photo online and are surprisingly inexpensive.

Camera Equipment

The Canon 1DX will be my primary camera of choice for this trip. I will also carry my original 1DS MK3 as a back-up in the unlikely event of a failure. I will also carry a number of spare batteries so that I can cycle them in and out of warm pockets. If Canon can supply me the new 200-400mm F4L IS with inbuilt 1.4 teleconverter before I depart (unlikely at this point) I will take it instead of the 300mm F2.8L IS lens.

During the 2nd workshop I will also have access to a Phase One 645DF and IQ160 60 mega pixel digital back and look forward to putting this state of the art digital medium format system to the test in the Iceland winter landscape. Stay tuned for some exciting news to come on Phase One in future posts.

Andy and I have our fingers crossed for some Aurora (northern lights) opportunities whilst we are in Iceland this March. The sun is at its peak of the eleven year solar cycle which should mean some blazing and spectacular Aurora if the skies are clear and conditions just right. It is going to be a lot of fun and I am very much looking forward to escaping the blistering heat of the Australian summer. It has only been a few months since my last Iceland workshop but I am already missing the countries amazing and ever changing landscape.

February Photo of the Month – Road to Oblivion

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The photograph of the month for February was taken toward the end of my last workshop to Iceland. We had risen before dawn and driven into the highland region of Veiðivötn in the hope of some magical light at sunrise. What we discovered was a sea of fog had descended over the area during the night and reduced visibility to near zero. Exhausted from ten days shooting with no real sleep we pulled the four wheel drive super jeep over and decided to grab some shut eye in the hope the rising sun would burn off some of the fog. An hour or so later the sun had risen and the fog had started to lift revealing the alien landscape of Veiðivötn where iridescent green moss spreads its tendrils across the black volcanic sand landscape.

This photograph was taken only a few metres from where we pulled the car over and was shot looking back across the road on which we had just driven. Shot with the Canon 1DX and Canon 70-200mm F2.8L IS at ISO100 F8 1/13th of a second on a tripod.

PHASE ONE joins Antarctica Expedition 2013

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I am very pleased to report that high end medium format camera manufacturer Phase One has signed on to join the expedition I am leading to Antarctica next November with Daniel Bergmann. Phase One are the world leaders in open platform medium format camera systems and produce what are widely regarded by many photographers as the finest and most reliable medium format digital camera systems available today. Kevin Raber, Vice President of Phase One PODAS workshops will be joining us for the duration of the expedition and will bringing a number of complete Phase One camera systems for everyone on the expedition to freely try and use throughout the trip. This is a truly extraordinary opportunity for all participants to experience the very best medium format digital system on the market today in what is in all likelyhood the most remote and amazing landscape on the planet. Not only will we be travelling to world class locations such as the geothermal Deception Island, the breathtaking Lemaire channel and the Gerlache Strait; but we will also be making photographs with some of the highest quality camera equipment available today.

Many of you may be familiar with Phase One’s highly successful PODAS series of workshops which they operate around the world on a regular basis.  I am very honoured and privileged to say that this expedition to Antarctica marks the first time Phase One are officially partnering and travelling with a 3rd party expedition to Antarctica. I would like to officially thank them for their support and warmly welcome them aboard this expedition.The Phase One medium format camera system is designed for versatility and with its many features it is suitable for all kinds of photography. The Phase One digital backs capture images of stunning quality, whether attached to a technical camera or the Phase One 645DF/645DF+ camera. The 645DF/645DF+ is the most versatile camera platform for high-end photography, supporting more than 50 different medium format digital backs. I am very much looking forward to seeing the amazing photographs produced by all on this expedition with these truly state of the art world class camera systems.

If you would like take advantage of this opportunity to photograph with the highest quality medium format digital camera system available today on what promises to be an amazing expedition to Antarctica then there are a still a few places remaining before this trip will be sold out (twin Private berth remaining only). A detailed itinerary can be downloaded from the Workshops page on my website. Please contact me if you would like additional information or would like to reserve one of the remaining places.