Today, I just wanted to share some wonderful positive feedback I received from our just completed April, 2025 Wild Nature Photo Travel expedition to Svalbard (Trip Report coming in the next few days). Shared experiences like this are the reason I started this company and continue to be the driving force for taking photographers into some of the wildest and most remote locations on our planet. Thank you to Andy and Jennifer for taking the time to write such wonderful feedback.
“Dear Fellow Pilgrims on the Svalbard Sojourn, And so it goes, as one might mutter in a post-epic journey haze, that we find ourselves penning this note, our hearts still adrift in the icy dazzle of April’s photographic odyssey to Svalbard—a place so starkly, absurdly beautiful it could make a grown man weep or a cynic reconsider their trade. We’re trying, in our fumbling, human way, to stitch together a thank-you that does justice to the kaleidoscopic wonder of what we all shared. Spoiler: words are flimsy things, like paper boats on an Arctic swell, but we’ll give it a go.
First, a nod to Joshua and Susy, our intrepid guides, who didn’t just lead us through the frostbitten wilds but opened their journey to us, letting us piggyback on their passion like hitchhikers on some cosmic road trip. You didn’t just show us walruses lolling on ice floes or the ice bear’s ghostly shimmy; you gifted us a lens—literal and otherwise—through which to see our fragile world anew. And to every soul on this expedition, from the gear-hauling, tripod-toting shutterbugs to the quiet ones who whispered awe at the edge of a glacier: you made this thing hum. You were, to borrow from that old B.W. Stevenson tune, the embodiment of “Everyone is helpful, everyone is kind / On the road to Shambala.” Svalbard, with its endless snow and light that bends time, felt like a glimpse of that place. Each click of our shutters, each shared fika of coffee in the bone-chilling cold, was a step on that road. We weren’t just chasing images; we were chasing renewal, love, the kind of adventurous spirit that makes you feel, for a fleeting moment, like you’ve cracked the code to being alive. And you all—every one of you—were kind, were helpful, were the sort of companions who make a journey feel like a destination in disguise. Our gratitude is a clumsy, oversized thing, too big for this page, but it’s real. We wish you all safe travels, continued success, and more journeys that feel like Shambala’s just around the bend. Keep chasing the light, literal and otherwise. – Andy & Jennifer”
There are few places on Earth that match the wild, remote, and brutally beautiful snow and ice covered landscapes of Svalbard in winter. Nestled deep within the Arctic Circle, this archipelago is a realm ruled by ice, wind, and wildlife. This April, I had the privilege of leading a private snowmobile expedition across this frozen frontier—a journey that would see us travel over 500 kilometres, find more than a dozen Arctic foxes, encounter reindeer and ptarmigan, and face the full spectrum of Arctic weather, from golden light to whiteout blizzards.
From the moment we arrived in Longyearbyen, the sense of isolation and adventure was palpable. The eve of an expedition is always an exciting time with the great unknown ahead. The air was sharp and cold, the light already tinged with the ethereal glow of Arctic spring. With 24-hour daylight just around the corner, we were on the cusp of the long polar day, and we planned to make the most of every usable hour. By April the sun no longer truly sets in Svalbard, which means there are hours of golden light available for photography. It also means we can work well into the night, taking advantage of times the wildlife is at its most active.
Our days were often long—starting at 5 a.m. and often not wrapping up until midnight—but the light was at its best during these hours. As any serious wildlife photographer knows, great light and great wildlife don’t run on a 9-to-5 schedule.
We travelled by snowmobile, fully outfitted in cold-weather gear, carrying camera equipment, safety gear, and enough fuel and supplies for extended runs. We based ourselves in Longyearbyen and made daily sojourns out into the wilderness in search of wildlife. Navigating the ice-covered landscape by snow mobile requires concentration and no small amount of stamina. But the reward? Untouched terrain, and wildlife in its most raw and natural form.
One of the primary goals of this expedition was to photograph Arctic foxes in their natural habitat. By the end of the trip, we had seen more than a dozen individuals—an incredible result in such a vast and challenging environment. These foxes, well-adapted to the cold and the shifting seasons, were in prime winter coat: a thick, snow-white camouflage against the terrain. This makes them hard to spot, but also incredibly photogenic in the snow covered environment.
One particularly encounter took place near a windswept ridge on the outskirts of Barentsburg, where we found a young white morph fox near the coastline. We set up low, using the terrain for cover, and waited. The fox came close—curious but cautious—offering a string of intimate moments that translated into some of the most compelling images of the trip. During this encounter we had to work quickly as there was a freezing wind that plummeted temperatures and numbed the fingers in moments. Despite the cold, some incredible images resulted from this encounter.
Another highlight came in the aftermath of a fresh snowfall. As we neared the town of Barentsburg, we spotted a fox high on a ridge line – watching from above. The soft light and pristine conditions gave the scene a dreamlike quality and a wonderful opportunity to show the fox in the landscape. It’s in moments like these that make wildlife photography in the Arctic such a joy.
While Arctic foxes were our primary focus, we were also treated to many memorable encounters with Svalbard reindeer in absolutely superb conditions. These smaller, stockier cousins of mainland reindeer are uniquely adapted to the harsh environment. We found several groups grazing through the snow-crusted tundra, their thick coats catching the snowfall.
Photographing them in the early hours and during the long twilight evenings, we were able to create evocative portraits against the vast, open white landscape amidst swirling snowfall.
Ptarmigan, often overlooked, became another fascinating subject. With their feathered feet and perfectly camouflaged plumage, these Arctic birds offered opportunities for intimate ground-level compositions. Catching one mid-fluff or just as it shook free a dusting of snow made for dynamic, storytelling frames that added variety to the trip’s portfolio.
Of course, no Arctic expedition would be complete without a taste of the extreme. One full day of our trip was lost to a powerful whiteout winter storm that swept through the region. Winds howled across the open landscape, visibility dropped to near zero, and temperatures plummeted well below -35°C with windchill. Of course, we ventured out to experience the storm, but photography was impossible and we returned to the safety of town after our winter storm experience.
We hunkered down in our base accommodation—frustrated by the lost shooting time, but deeply aware that this, too, was part of the Arctic’s story. When the storm finally passed, it left behind a transformed world. The landscape had been reset—smooth, sculpted by the wind, and freshly dusted with snow. This shift opened new possibilities for minimalistic compositions, and our fox sightings resumed with a renewed sense of wonder.
Our routine became a rhythm of extremes—early starts, long snowmobile journeys, and frequent stops to assess terrain, scout for wildlife, or simply pause and admire the view. The focus was always on maximizing opportunities while respecting the environment and the wildlife. This private snowmobile expedition was not just a photography tour—it was a true Arctic experience. From the exhilaration of racing across frozen fjords to the quiet joy of lying in wait as a fox crests a snowbank, it was a journey that tested us, thrilled us, and left us with a deepened connection to the polar world.
As the snowmobiles rolled back into Longyearbyen for the final time, we were exhausted but elated—changed in ways we hadn’t expected. That, more than anything, is the hallmark of a truly great expedition. We will be running another snow mobile expedition for Arctic wildlife in 2026 in Svalbard. The expedition will again see us based in Longyearbyen, making daily journeys out in the field in search of wildlife. The expedition will run from April 1st until April 5th, 2026 and is limited to just three participants. Full details are now available on the website HERE.
It has taken some days, but tonight I finally received a response from the Governor’s office in Svalbard in relation to the horrific story I reported on HERE regarding the harassment and stressful darting of Polar Bears via helicopter. Since I wrote about this story it has been published by NRK in Norway as well as Svalbard Posten in Longyearbyen and several other news outlets have also run the story. It has also been widely shared on Social Media and photography websites including PetaPixel.
The response from the Governors office reads: “Hello, The Governor is looking into whether the institution has complied with all conditions in the permit.”
I have sent the following correspondence to the Governor’s office in response: “Good morning Eva, Thank you for letting me know that the Governor is now conducting an investigation into this incident. I am preparing a paper for submission to the Governor with time-stamped photographs as well as the GPS co-ordinates that clearly shows Jon Ars’s recounting of the 3-4 minute chase is a blatant lie. The photographic time-stamped evidence is indisputable.
I am also preparing signed letters from all 12 passengers and the Captain that were on board M.S Freya that witnessed this event that corroborate the events that took place as reported. The 2nd mate on board also timed the event and has provided evidence to me as well.
Further to the above – there may be a case with the civil aviation authority regarding the manner of reckless high speed low-level flying we witnessed during the chase. This is a question for the CAA.
In addition to the above, questions need to be asked surrounding the fact that this chase and hunt was conducted in front of our expedition vessel without regard to the passengers who had paid to see and observe a polar bear in the wild (safely from a distance of 3km).
This is not just a question of wether the helicopter and researchers adhered to all the regulations (which I find very hard to believe given all of the above), but of the double standard being applied in Svalbard regarding Polar Bears, photographers and researchers.
Broader questions need to be asked at the highest level of the Norwegian Polar Institute about the continual need for tagging of Polar Bears (removal of pre-molars, claws, invasive use of heart and pulse rate monitors and collars on female bears). Or, is the NPI merely trying to avoid having its funding cut from the Norwegian government by continuing ‘research’ that is no longer necessary. How many more bears have to be stressed and killed by invasive sedation methods??? What is the current count on dead bears from this methodology in Svalbard? I am aware of at least two from NPI employees in recent times.
These issues need to be treated with utmost priority and I will continue to push this through mainstream media until Polar Bears are no longer harassed or stressed in the name of unnecessary science. And, until such time, that the rules surrounding viewing and photographing of Polar Bears in Svalbard are revised in accordance with common sense and applied equally to all who visit Svalbard – be it general tourist or scientist.”
What can you do to help? Please sign the petition HERE.
Many wildlife photographers of are likely already aware of the increasingly absurd regulations being imposed on all visitors to Svalbard, particularly surrounding the ‘so-called’ protection of polar bears. One of the most contentious of these mandates is the requirement to maintain a minimum distance of 500 meters from a polar bear—no matter the circumstance. That includes viewing from the safety of an expedition vessel and even when a bear voluntarily approaches. Photographers, wildlife enthusiasts, and nature lovers are being pushed further and further away, forced to retreat at the exact moment nature becomes intimate and magical. These new regulations are not designed to protect Polar Bears – they are designed to stop Polar Bear watching in Svalbard.
The new law (Legislative Decree 65 2023–2024), passed in mid-2024, reads:
It is prohibited to unnecessarily disturb, lure, or pursue polar bears.No one may travel or stay closer than 300 meters to a polar bear. From March 1 to June 30, no one may travel or stay closer than 500 meters to a polar bear. Anyone who spots a polar bear closer than the distance limit must move away so that the legal distance is maintained.
Yet on the 20th of April this year, 2025, I witnessed something that throws the entire justification for these restrictions into serious question. I documented an utterly disgraceful scene involving so-called “researchers / scientists” from the Norwegian Polar Institute, who, under the banner of science, mercilessly harassed and stressed a wild polar bear with their helicopter. This wasn’t a misunderstanding or a necessary intervention. This was a prolonged, high-speed chase that left a majestic animal panicked, exhausted, stressed and visibly terrified.
We had been observing this particular bear from a respectful distance aboard our expedition vessel—more than 3 kilometres away—as it rested peacefully on the ice and slowly ambled across the frozen landscape. It was calm, undisturbed, and behaving entirely naturally. We observed the bear for more than four hours, keeping our distance and respecting the environment and the bear. Then came the helicopter.
Flying in at a low altitude and high speed, the chopper panicked the bear almost immediately. It leapt up and began running at full speed, clearly terrified by the sudden roar and presence of the aircraft. What followed was not a quick dart-and-release operation. Instead, the helicopter pursued the bear relentlessly for more than thirty minutes, sweeping down to within mere metres of the fleeing and now highly stressed animal. This was not research—it was a chase. And it was heartbreaking to witness.
Eventually, after the bear was clearly exhausted and had no energy left to continue running, it was darted. Imagine that: terrorising an animal into a state of total exhaustion and stress before sedating it. All in the name of science.
Let’s be crystal clear here: this was harassment, pure and simple. No matter how it’s packaged, this kind of treatment of a wild animal is not only unethical, it is completely out of alignment with the strict rules imposed on everyone else in Svalbard. If a group of photographers or tourists had behaved this way—approaching a bear at such a close range, causing it to flee in fear, disturbing its natural behavior—we’d be vilified. Fined. Possibly even banned. And yet when it’s a helicopter marked with the insignia of a research organization, this behavior is suddenly justifiable?
I want to be clear at this point. I am not against the science of Polar Bears. I am against the invasive and highly stressful nature in which this science is currently being carried out by the Norwegian Polar Institute. They, and the governor of Svalbard are responsible.
We cannot stand by and allow this kind of hypocrisy to go unchecked. The rules in Svalbard must be applied consistently, regardless of whether the person breaking them wears a lab coat or carries a camera. If it’s unacceptable for an expedition ship to remain stationary while a curious bear approaches, how can it possibly be acceptable to chase that same bear with a helicopter until it collapses from fear, stress and exhaustion?
This is not an isolated incident. Reports from others who have spent time in the Arctic tell similar stories of “research” being used as a shield for disturbing and unnecessary interference with wildlife. It is high time we start questioning who is truly disturbing the natural order in Svalbard.
I’ve included above a photograph—a zoomed-in crop from a 600mm lens—that captures the moment this bear, utterly drained and frightened, tried to escape the mechanical predator circling above. It’s not easy to look at, but it is vital that this image be seen. I urge you to share it widely. Send it to the Governor of Svalbard. Send it to the Norwegian Environmental Agency and Norwegian Polar institute. Send it to every institution responsible for wildlife regulation and oversight in the Arctic – This needs to stop.
The polar bear is not just a symbol of the Arctic—it is an apex species already under tremendous pressure from a rapidly warming world. The very least we can do is treat it with the respect and dignity it deserves. And that means holding everyone—scientists, tourists, guides, and yes, photographers—to the same standard of ethical behavior.
The world is watching. Let’s make sure Svalbard does better.
Addendum: Through a mutual friend, Morten Jørgensen (author or Polar Bears on the Edge), Nikita Ovsyanikov, (Dr. of Bio. Sci., Polar bear specialist), has reached out with the following statement.
“This is a very powerful message in this record of the violence against the bear done by polar bear scientists in Svalbard. And this evidence should be published widely in all possible media, in all possible ways. Science is doing its cynical business, jeopardizing polar bears in this way to “answer the question of how global warming is affecting polar bears “. These scientists are driving polar bears to extinction. What they are doing is an ecological crime, nothing else!
Considering the legal aspects of this event, and of this invasive methodology in general, the following qualification should be applied:
Due to its de facto impact on animals, this application of such an invasive methodology, should be interpreted as a violation of the law. There are laws intended to protect animals from cruelty, and this is intentional cruel treatment of an animal. There are laws protecting endangered animals, and this intentional treatment has a strong negative impact on and endangered and protected animal.
This harassment of animals and violation of humanitarian and conservation principles must be stopped. Protection of animals from cruelty and protection of endangered species from negative impacts that reduce their survival capacity (evidence is numerous, but continuously denied by the scientists more interested in continuing their business) should be made real and effective.”
Nikita Ovsyanikov,Dr. of Bio. Sci., Polar bear specialist,Ethologist and conservationist.
Dr. Nikita Ovsyanikov is widely regarded as the most experienced Polar Bear scientist in the world with decades of experience.
Without a doubt, my favourite conditions for photographing the Arctic Fox are winter blizzard conditions. The flying snow creates a white-out that cleans up any background mess, and the flying snow sticks to the fox’s coat and gives extraordinary context and much-needed drama. These conditions define the environment of the Arctic fox and paint the perfect canvas on which to photograph this amazing opportunist. Contrary to appearances, these conditions are far easier to photograph in than they appear. With modern auto focus in mirrorless equipment, the cameras have no problem finding and tracking the eye of the Arctic Fox in these conditions. In past years, I would often stop down the lens to ensure adequate depth of field if focus missed slightly. Now, with eye-auto focus, I can open up the lens and shoot wide open, as in this case – f4 at 600mm. Why shoot wide open? A wide-open aperture helps soften the surrounding snow’s slope, creating a contained picture inside the 35mm frame. This technique can be used to great effect to help keep the viewers eye both inside the frame and on subject.
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