Iceland the Highlands Workshop Reports 2016

In August and September of 2016 Daniel Bergmann and I lead two back-to-back workshops into the spectacular Highlands of Iceland. The first of these two workshops focused on the Highlands and northern areas of Iceland and the second on the Highlands and Southern region. We chose late August and September for our workshops due to the large increase in tourism in recent times in Iceland during the summer period. In truth, tourism is actually out of control now in Iceland and you absolutely must get off the beaten track if you want to get solitude in the wilderness. Part of our planning was to spend a large portion of our time in the more remote areas of the highlands in order to make sure we were well away from the masses.  This proved most fruitful with spectacular landscape free from throngs of tourists._MG_6396-EditAs many of you know who follow my blog, the highlands are in my opinion the real jewel in the crown of Iceland. The area offers incredible photographic opportunities and is in comparison to the rest of the island rarely visited by tourists. The Highlands of Iceland actually cover most of the island’s interior. Inaccessible in winter, they rise 400–500 meters above sea level and are an untamed mingling of uninhabitable volcanic desert, jagged mountains, glaciers and hot springs. A few oasis like areas, such as Herðubreiðarlindir near Askja, are found only in proximity to rivers. From a first time photographers perspective the highlands can be a challenging location to work and photograph. Some walking and hiking is really required to get the best compositions and the area is subject to highly variable weather. All of this makes for really interesting photographs that in my opinion are far more evocative than the usual sort of cliché images from Iceland that seem to dominate social media today (more on this later).

We began our workshops with an early departure on the 14th of August and drove to our Hrauneyjar highland base, where we were located for three nights. From Hrauneyjar we explored the magnificent Fjallabak Nature Reserve, which included the Landmannalaugar area and other lesser known highland pearls, such as the Veidivotn region (one of my absolute favourite locations in Iceland). Exploring and photographing the highlands of Iceland from super jeep we were able to stop when we wished and take full advantage of weather and light as conditions permitted. It also meant we were able to take the most rugged and remote mountain passes and really explore the best of the highlands. The weather is highly variable in the highlands and we did experience everything from sunshine to pouring rain and fog during our stay in this area. Although this sort of weather can prove challenging, I personally find these conditions the most interesting to work and photograph in._MG_6397-EditOn August 17th we traveled across the Sprengisandur route that crosses the interior of the island and found our way to Lake Myvatn in the north, where we spent the next three nights. The Sprengisandur route took us right up the middle of the island through some of the most desolate lunar landscape to be found anywhere on earth. We photographed the waterfalls of the Skjalfandi river (Godafoss and Aldeyjarfoss), plus Dettifoss and Selfoss waterfalls in the Jokulsa river. We also explored the geothermal areas close to Myvatn. The geothermals of Myvatn continue to provide unlimited opportunities for photography and remain one of my favourite areas to visit and photograph in the north. This area is extremely dynamic and is in a constant state of flux. The landscape is alive with mud pits and fumoroles and steaming sulphur creates an otherworldly landscape. At sunrise and sunset we had the entire area to ourselves and some fabulous images were created.IcelandHighlands2016-6243Once we had concluded our stay at Myvatn we travelled west along the northern coast and overnighted near the Vatnsnes Peninsula. Hvitserkur sea stack was one of our main subjects at Vatnsnes, along with other coastal features. The following day we travelled to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, where we spent the last two days of our trip. At Snaefellsnes we photographed the iconic Kirkjufell mountain and the spectacular coast at Arnarstapi and Hellnar, on the southern tip of the peninsula. We concluded our trip on the 23rd of August at Keflavik international airport.

IcelandHighlands2016-6168 Our second workshop commenced early in the morning on the 28th of August with a drive to the Kjolur highland route towards Kerlingarfjoll mountains, where stayed overnight in mountain cabins. Our main photographic objective was the incredible Hveradalir geothermal valleys, above our lodging. We photographed the area at both sunset and shortly after sunrise and some really unique images resulted from our time in this area. This was actually only the second time I had visited this area of Iceland and it did not fail to disappoint. The geothermals in this area are extremely active and the entire landscape is alive with sulphurous fumaroles and boiling mud pots. It would be easy to spend a week in this area just exploring and photographing the many features to be found. The area is (thankfully) not on most tourists radar and as such is usually frequented only by hikers and campers. _MG_6290-EditAfter our stay at Kerlingarfjoll we drove to the Hrauneyjar highland base, where we were located for three nights. From Hrauneyjar we again explored the magnificent Fjallabak Nature Reserve. The weather proved fickle during our time in this area and we again had a real mix of rain and sunshine. 

On September 1st we travelled across the highlands on our way south. It was a day of travel through some of the most incredible landscape in Iceland. We were blessed with some really dramatic cloud and light and some fabulous photography resulted from our journey through this remote part of Iceland._MG_6453-EditOnce out of the highlands we overnighted at the town of Hella before traveling further east along the coast to the Vatnajokull region, where we stayed at Gerdi for three nights. Once at Gerdi we were in the proximity of the Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon and the many outlet glaciers from the Vatnajokull ice cap. This was our grounds to explore for the coming days and we photographed at the black sand beach, the glacial lagoon, Stokksness as well as several other lesser known locations off the tourist radar. After our stay in the southeast we traveled back west and spent a night on the southern coast. On our departure day we headed off towards the Keflavik airport._MG_6697With tourism increasing exponentially in Iceland in recent times it was ideal timing for us to get up into the Highlands on both these workshops and find solitude and peace in the wilderness. Until tourism tapers off in Iceland I will be unlikely to run future landscape trips in the peak summer season (June, July and August) as it has just become far too crowded for serious photography at many of Iceland’s best known natural attractions. Instead, I will be focusing on more remote winter trips and more specialised workshops (such as the Puffin workshop next year) that take us into more remote wilderness locations, well away from the tourist crowds.

New Zealand South Island Masterclass 2017 Sold Out

I had been planning for some time to formally announce my New Zealand South Island Masterclass workshop for next year (2017) here on my blog; but realised yesterday the trip is actually already sold out. _MG_5661If you are interested in travelling to New Zealand and photographing in the spectacular South Island you can still register your interest to be put onto the wait list. Like the 2015, and 2016 workshops, the 2017 Masterclass workshop also includes extensive use of helicopters for accessing some of the most remote and spectacular country as well as aerial photography of the spectacular Southern Alps and glaciers. Full details of the workshop are available on my website as a PDF HERE.

NewZealand-1988I will be announcing dates soon for the 2018 New Zealand South Island Masterclass. If you would like to get the jump and be one of the first to be notified when dates are confirmed you can register your interest now by dropping me an email. No obligation at this point. You can read a trip report from the 2016 Masterclass HERE.

Polar Bears of Svalbard 2016 Expedition Report

In late July 2016 I lead my annual Polar Bears of Svalbard photographic expedition to the edge of the permanent pack ice north of Svalbard to photograph Polar Bears living and hunting in their natural environment. During the expedition we also photographed incredible arctic landscapes as well as other wildlife of the Arctic region including Walrus, Arctic Fox, Whales, Seals and a plethora of sea birds including the rare Ivory Gull (the rare Ross’s Gull remains an elusive species for me in Svalbard). This expedition was for a small group of just twelve passionate photographers and utilised a small ice hardened ship that enabled us to sail north directly into the pack ice in search of the king of the Arctic.Svalbard2016-5959-EditImportantly, our ship had very low decks that were very close the waterline which enabled us to make photographs at eye level for more intimate images. The choice of ship for expeditions such as these is critical to the ability to put yourself in the best possible place to make powerful and emotive photographs. Large ships that are unable to penetrate the ice and with high decks  where you have to compete for space with other passengers are far from ideal and unsuited to photography expeditions. During the expedition we were fortunate to see and photograph an incredible twenty Polar Bears in the just the first three days! Two of these bears were also on recent seal kills. Seeing a Polar Bear on a seal kill is a very rare event and as luck would have it were able to photograph the kills and all aboard were able to capture some really fantastic photographs. What was even more special was the even rarer encounter we had with a mother and her 6 month old cub on the sea ice. This was truly a special moment with a very curious cub and a very calm mother we were able to approach very close in our zodiacs for some really superb photography. As one participant put it “It was two hours photography that was better than his previous six visits to Churchill National ParkSvalbard2016-24158This year we undertook a different route to my 2015 expedition and instead of heading south and circumnavigating Spitzbergen we headed directly north for the pack ice. This turned out to be the perfect decision with twenty polar bear encounters in the first three days in the ice. The Arctic pack ice is a vast area and just finding Polar Bears in this maze of ice can be quite the challenge. Encountering so many bears in such a short space of time was truly miraculous.Svalbard2016-5843-EditAfter three days in the ice we continued our northerly travels encountering light to moderate winds in the Hinlopen strait. In this area we explored and photographed the spectacular 200 mile+ long glacier face Bråsvellbreen and the plunging bird cliffs at Kapp Fanshawe. The sights and sounds of thousands of nesting birds against such a precipitous cliff is an awe inspiring sight. I have been fortunate to visit this area a number of times now and it never ceases to impress. Being surrounded by thousands of Arctic birds is a very special experience.  Svalbard2016-12283-EditWhen it was time to head south again we made several stops in the spectacular Kongsfjorden; where we photographed Arctic Fox and spectacular glacial fronts. We rose very early one morning for a wonderful session photographing Walrus in fantastic light. During the expedition we were also fortunate to see and photograph several rare Blue whales (unfortunately I did not get a good photograph). Blue whales are quite tricky to photograph as they rarely reveal to much of their body above the waterline. Nevertheless the experience of seeing this massive mammal is an experience that stays with you forever.Svalbard-0404At our furthest northerly most position we were just shy of 82º North – less than 500 Nautical Miles from the North Pole. In total we travelled a total distance of 1148 nautical miles (2126 kilometres). Our total wildlife count for the expedition was twenty Polar Bears, two Arctic Fox, four Humpback Whales, three Blue Whales, two Beluga Whales, one Minke Whale, More than twenty Walrus and eight Reindeer. On top of this we had many different species of Arctic Birds. This was a fabulous result that netted some amazing photographs from all aboard.

During the expedition we took advantage of great light at every opportunity and often worked at night when the light was soft and ethereal. One of the most fantastic things about photography in the Arctic is the 24 hours of daylight and the extensive opportunities this provides for image making at any time of the day or night. One of the best moments for me personally was capturing a fog as it burnt off across the top of one of the glacial fronts.Svalbard2016-28772-EditThe high Arctic remains one of the most spectacular locations I have ever visited and I look forward to returning again next year when I will lead another two expeditions to the pack ice north of Svalbard – Polar Bears of Svalbard and Winter in Svalbard (Winter is already Sold out). The summer expedition will depart on the 25th of July from Longyearbyen and is dedicated to the photography of Polar Bears living and hunting on the sea ice. If you would like more information about this expedition please drop me an email at info@jholko.com. Be sure to check out the video below to experience just what this expedition is really like. There are now only a few places remaining before the expedition will be sold out.KingdomoftheiceBear

Moab by Legion Paper – Featured Photographer at Photo Plus New York

If you are headed to Photo Plus in New York in October this year be sure to stop past the Moab and Legion paper stand where several of my photographs from Antarctica will be on display as large prints on the new Moab Juniper Baryta paper. Just a reminder as well, the good folks over at the BenQ stand will be giving away limited edition postcards of several of my images from Antarctica and Svalbard. One of the photographs was a finalist and was subsequently highly honoured in the recent Nature’s Best Photography awards and two others were finalists in the 2016 Australian Antarctica Photographer of the Year competition. Photo Plus is the biggest Photo Event in the USA and runs from October 20th to October 22nd. I will be attending Photo Plus for the first time this year (on the 21st and 22nd) and will be floating between the BenQ and Moab and Legion Paper stands. I will be giving a presentation at the BenQ stand on Polar Photography on the 21st and 22nd at 2pm. If you are around be sure to stop past and say hello!An Epic Sense of Scale

Travel Photographer of the Year International Touring Exhibition

The Travel Photographer of the Year touring exhibitions are now underway and the first is now happening in Malta (running until October 8th). This is the first international exhibition for Travel Photographer of the Year and the first retrospective.  The second retrospective opens in Beijing from October 15th and will run until October 23rd this year. The Malta exhibition is being held at  Spazju Kreattiv, St James Cavalier, Valletta, Malta (they are on Twitter etc.) and the Beijing exhibition is part of Photo Beijing.

Several of my photographs will be on display as part of these exhibitions. The polar bear and seal kill is on display in both the Malta and Beijing exhibitions, whilst the image of the blue iceberg on the beach in Iceland is on show in Malta. If you happen to have a chance to visit any of the exhibitions please be sure to drop me an email and let me know what you thought.VPPY - Gold Award
Blue-Berg