South Georgia Island and Antarctica Expedition 2014 Report

In November 2014 I led an extensive twenty-one day landscape and wildlife photographic expedition with good friend Andy Biggs to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and Antarctica. The purpose of this extended expedition was to provide the definitive Antarctic and sub-Antarctic experience. We planned to take in the best of the Falklands, South Georgia Island and Antarctica and experience not only the diverse landscape and wildlife, but also some of the historic relics and history of these amazing places.

Our expedition saw us cover more than 3400 nautical miles in a round trip from Ushuaia, to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island, The South Shetland Islands, Antarctica and finally return to Ushuaia. We experienced the full range of weather and conditions from brilliant sunshine to gale force winds on our approach to Antarctica. As a photographer who prefers the drama of overcast skies and storm conditions I relished the opportunities that we had to shoot in inclement weather. Those of us who preferred calmer conditions were likewise blessed with some wonderful weather during much of our time in the Falklands and South Georgia. Unfortunately for me, I did suffer (not alone ) a good dose of seasickness during this expedition that more or less confined me to cabin during our sea days on this expedition. This was the first time I have succumbed in such a manner to sea sickness and I can now completely sympathise with anyone has been unfortunate enough to suffer from this uncomfortable condition.FalklandIslands-063612014In the Falklands we visited West Point Island and New Island where we photographed majestic Black Browed Albatross and Rock Hopper Penguins. Rock Hopper Penguins are the rock stars of the penguin world and are extremely photogenic with their wild hair and cool looks. We were fortunate to have some fabulous light and incredible access in the Falklands and were able to photograph nesting Black Browed Albatross up close. Some of us were also fortunate to see and photograph the very rare Striated Kara Kara. Although I did manage to grab a couple of snaps of this rare raptor for documentary purposes the images themselves are more record photographs and not considered compositions. Nevertheless it was a real thrill to see and photograph this rare bird of prey.

FalklandIslands-096412014We also stopped in Stanley, the capital of the Falklands where we refuelled on coffee and took in some local sights. Keen to make our way to South Georgia our stay in the Falklands was brief and we were soon underway for three days sailing to South Georgia Island.

South Georgia is one of the most remote islands on the planet and is a full three days sail from the Falkland Islands. It is also host to an incredible biomass of wildlife that makes it not only unique but also incredibly special. The sheer mass of wildlife on tap in South Georgia is a wildlife photographers dream and the opportunities are infinite. South Georgia is nothing short of a complete sensory assault with tens of thousands of nesting King Penguins, penguin chicks, Fur Seals, Elephant seals and a virtual cornucopia of birdlife. At first blush South Georgia can be so overwhelming that simply making sense of it can be difficult and it pays to spend some time simply enjoying the experience as well as photographing.King Penguins Saint AndrewsSouth Georgia island is strictly controlled in terms of number of visitors permitted on the island, where they are allowed to land and the hours they can be ashore. The purpose of these restrictions is to keep South Georgia as pristine as possible and to give wildlife a chance to rest away from the disturbance of human visitation. As such it is not permitted to land in South Georgia before 4am and you must depart by no later than 10pm. In order to take advantage of the best light possible we frequently commenced our zodiac operations at 4am so that we could not only maximise our time ashore but also ensure we experienced the best of the light available. These long hours usually enabled us three landings per day which meant we could squeeze in a great amount of photography during our time in this amazing location.

Our first stop in South Georgia was Grytviken where we explored the old whaling remnants that lie scattered amongst the small settlement. Fur seals and elephant seals greeted us as our zodiacs landed amongst the rusty whalers remnants. I chose to focus my efforts at this location on a very playful baby elephant seal wallowing in the shallows of the harbour. This photograph was taken with a Canon EOS1DX with a 16-35mm F4L IS lens in an Aquatech underwater sports housing with wide angle dome port. The seal seemed intent on kissing the camera and I had to wipe seal slobber off the dome port on several occasions. My sincere thanks to Aquatech for the loan of the underwater housing for the duration of this expedition.SouthGeorgia-8339-Edit22014One of the greatest attractions in South Georgia are the majestic King Penguins. These elegant birds are the Kings of South Georgia and can be found by the tens of thousands at Salisbury Plain, Gold Harbor and Saint Andrews – all of which we visited during this expedition. Larger than the Gentoo, Chinstrap, Rockhopper and Macaroon they are also the most colourful and to my mind at least, the most elegant and photogenic.

SouthGeorgia-2456-Edit42014We also visited Little Moltke harbour, Hercules and the Drygalski fjord in South Georgia. All of these offered incredible landscapes and wildlife opportunities. I hope to share more photographs from these locations over the coming weeks and months.

As we sailed from South Georgia Island to Antarctica through the Scotia sea we passed gigantic tabular icebergs slowly drifting out of the Weddell Sea. The largest of which measured an enormous twelve kilometres on the ships radar. Icebergs of this size and magnitude generate their own local weather system and are always dramatic to photograph.SouthGeorgia-9735-Edit62014Our approach from South Georgia to Antarctica presented us with nearly 50 knots of howling wind which prevented us from landing at Deception Island. However, we were able to land briefly at the historic Point Wild in rising Catabolic winds. This is the first time I have been able to actually place a foot on rock at this location having been blown out on all other attempts. Point Wild is home to a colony of Chinstrap penguins and was the location where Antarctic explorers huddled for three months before rescue.Antarctic StormDuring our time in Antarctica our most southerly point was the breathtaking Lemaire Channel which we cruised through during a magnificent polar sunset. The Lemaire channel is always a dicey bet this early in the season but with the experience of our Russian Captain we were able to navigate the ice strewn waters and experience one of the most amazing sunsets I have ever witnessed in polar waters.

Antarctica-375612014We also explored Neko Harbour, Paradise Bay, Cierva Cove and more. We cruised on zodiacs amongst spectacular icebergs as well as landing and exploring on foot. We were regularly greeted during our landings by our comedic friends the Gentoo penguins.

Our final landing in Antarctica was at the penguin festooned Cuverville Island. Cuverville has become one of my favourite landings in Antarctica with its stunning dramatic scenery, extensive Gentoo penguin colonies set against precipitous mountains and incredible glaciers hanging between mountains. It provides the perfect backdrop for Antarctic photography. Add a liberal dose of inclement weather and the island comes alive with drama. Cuverville was our coldest landing with 20-25knott winds and a significant wind chill. The resulting images bore out a taste of just what Antarctica can truly be like. It is hostile in its magnificence.Antarctica-2380-Edit82014There were some fantastic photographs that resulted from this expedition by many of the photographers who participated. Personally, I shot over 7,500 images during the course of the expedition and as is usual it will take me many months to mine the jewels from this expedition. For now the photographs in this report are just a few of my initial favourites. During the course of the expedition the ships crew prepare a report of the previous days activities as well as what to expect for the coming day. You can download the daily trip reports as a SouthGeorgiaReport PDF.

SouthGeorgia Group PhotoWe also had a videographer aboard to document our expedition and I hope to share the video from this expedition in a few months once all of the editing and post production work is complete.

If you are interested in travelling and photographing in South Georgia Island I will be leading a dedicated fifteen day expedition in November this year that departs from the Falkland Islands and that will spend more than eight days in this wondrous location. There are now only two places remaining before this expedition will be sold out. If you would like any additional information you can register your interest by dropping me an email at info@jholko.com

January Photo of the Month Winner: Fred Jennings

Congratulations to the first print winner ‘Fred Jennings’, for the photograph of the month for January 2015: ‘Maelstrom’

What Fred said: I know I won’t be the first, but what really impresses me is the layering of the different levels in the berg. I image the history stored in these layers over thousands of years and wonder what had transpired in the world during each of these layers. The movement of the snow blowing off the top of the berg is in such contrast to the timeless movement of the berg.

Great colour and great photo, I wish I cold learn directly from you. Thanks for sharing such a great story.IMG_3519

Congratulations Fred, you were the first, and your print will be sent to you next week.

Keep an eye out on my blog for the next print giveaway with the February photograph of the month. Remember the best way to get instant updates is to subscribe via email.

January Photo of the Month – Maelstrom

My first photograph of the month for 2015 is an image I titled ‘Maelstrom’ of a large tubular iceberg on the edge of the Weddell sea in Antarctica. It was photographed from the fly bridge of the expedition ship in howling katabatibc winds – probably the strongest winds I have experienced to date in Antarctica (just standing on the deck without holding on was all but impossible). The winds (in excess of 50 knots I was told by the Captain) were whipping the fresh snow off the top of the iceberg like a vapour trail. There are a combination of factors in this photograph that really work for me, but its the drama that sets it alight and really makes it sing. I have been fortunate to photograph a great many icebergs over the last few years and it is the images that were shot in dramatic weather that really stand out for me.  They are far more evocative than images of icebergs under blue skies or in fine weather.Maelstrom

Don’t forget! You can win a free 13″ x 19″ Fine Art Print of this photograph including shipping anywhere in the world. All you need do is to be the first to comment on this post on the home page with your thoughts on why you like this photograph or why you would like to own a print of the image and then share the post with your preferred social media outlet.

Happy New Year! Win a Free Fine Art Print of the Photo of the Month

Another year has now come and gone – where do they go! In many ways I am quite sorry to see the back of 2014 (Read the Retrospective). It was an incredible year for me and in many ways I feel a turning point in my photography. However, it is now time to look forward and begin the new year in earnest. Before I leave for Yellowstone in Winter in a few weeks time I want to announce a new print project give-away that will kick off with my first Photograph of the Month post for 2015.

It has continually frustrated me over the last few years that I really only get to share a digital jpeg of my finished photography on the internet and not the finished fine art print as I envisioned it. The problem with sharing digital images online is that we are restricted to low quality jpeg images to protect our copyright ownership (and sadly images still get taken and used without permission). These low resolution jpegs are just poor facsimiles of the finished fine art print that fail to convey the wonderful tones, textures and subtelties that a well crafted print can convey.

Photography for me is all about the print and as I have written often before I never really feel like I have finished with an image until I have made a well-crafted print. Other than visiting one of the galleries that display my photography in Australia, Tasmania or Aspen in the USA and perhaps purchasing a large fine art print there has to date been no way for me to really share this aspect of my photography.  However, I have a plan to change that and beginning immediately, and with every photograph of the month for 2015 I will be giving away free a 13″ x 19″ inch signed, open edition fine art print to the first person who comments on the photograph of the month post here on the main page. Each print will be of the actual photograph of the month and will be made on my favourite fine art paper – Moab Somerset Museum Rag. I use X-Rite Colour Management products in my print workflow and my prints are made on Canon IPF6350 and IPF9400 Large Format Pigment ink printers. This is the same paper, printer and colour management solution I use for all my large gallery prints and the same paper my winning photographs were printed on at the 2014 Victorian Professional Photographer of the Year Awards and 2014 Australian Professional Photography Awards. All you need do to win the print is to be the first to comment on the photograph of the month here on the home page with your thoughts on why you like it and to share the post with your social media outlet of choice. It doesn’t have to be a long winded explanation on why you like the photograph. Just a few words about how it makes you feel, or why you would like to own a print of the photograph is sufficient. I will then send you a FREE 13″ x 19″ inch fine art print to your nominated address including free shipping worldwide.IMG_3519My reasons for giving away a print every month are two-fold. Firstly, this allows me to share in some small way the finished photograph in my medium of choice with someone who appreciates the photograph and who will hopefully cherish the print; but it also allows me to give back something to the photographic community and share my finished photography with other photographers.

Due to my hectic travel schedule it may take me some time to make and post out each print so if you are the lucky winner for a given month I ask that you jut exercise a little patience and as soon as I am back in my studio in Australia and as soon as practical I will make the print and send it to you – free of charge. Each print will be made and personally signed by me with the same care and attention to detail I exercise on my large gallery prints. There will be a total of twelve prints to win throughout the calendar year and the give away starts immediately with the 2015 January Photo of the Month – You just have to keep an eye out for the next post. Good luck and don’t forget in order to win the print you need to be the first to comment here on the home page on the post titled ‘Photo of the Month – [Insert Month]‘ for the 2015 calendar year with your thoughts on why you like the photograph or why you would like to own a print and to then share the post with your social media outlet of choice.

Hint: The fastest way to be notified of a new post to my blog is to subscribe to updates by entering your email address in the subscription section.

Departing on The Spirit of Antarctica Expedition 2014

My friend Antony Watson and I recently finished up ten days trekking and photography in the back country of Patagonia and have spent the last few days in Ushuaia at the bottom of South America. I admit, that at this point South America is starting to feel like my home away from home and that my Spanish is now about as good as my Icelandic! Later today we depart on our final Antarctica expedition for the year to the Antarctic Peninsula where we hope to encounter more amazing icebergs, landscapes and polar wildlife. We have a ship full of keen and passionate photographers all eager to get underway and get some polar frames in the can. The enthusiasm of a ship full of photographers about to embark on an Antarctic odyssey is a fantastic energy resource and one can’t help but get swept up in the excitement. 20141125_Patagoniaiphone_02073111As expected Patagonia was a mixed bag of weather and light (or should I say wind, wind and more wind!). The scenery of this amazing location is breathtaking – the precipitous peaks, the plunging mountains and wild terrain is really phenomenal. Hiking through this terrain really puts a perspective on the sheer scope and scale of the geological uplift. I have personally found Patagonia a challenging place to photograph in the past and this trip was no different. The scenery really needs just the right combination of weather and light to really create great images. I have seen a lot of photography from Patagonia over the years and those images that really stand out for me are those that have captured the most dramatic weather and light. Patagonia remains for me one of those places that is dramatic to behold but photographically elusive. I am sure I have some good images from Patagonia, but I am not sure I have any definitive ones as yet. I need to look at my photographs with fresh eyes in a couple of months to really get a feel for what I did or did not accomplish. I took a laid back approach to my photography in Patagonia and was happy in many instances to simply take it in and leave the cameras in the bag.  I did very much enjoy our long days of hiking through Patagonia and was very appreciative of the light weight 5D MKIII loaned to me by my good friend Martyn. The thought of schlepping one of my Canon EOS 1DX’s up some of those mountains would have in all likelihood seen me choose to stay at the bar. In fact, it is worth noting that the hiking was fairly arduous and I am not ashamed to admit I arrived at our campsite several evenings tired and sore. Hiking the back country of Patagonia with good friends was one of those life experiences you never forget and the memories from this trip will I hope stay with me forever. I hope to write more about our experiences in Patagonia over the coming months as my thoughts congeal from both our hiking and photographic experiences. Until then, its time to turn my attention again to Antarctica.

We will be sailing down the Beagle Channel in a few hours and making our way across the Drake Passage bound for Antarctica. No two Antarctic expeditions are ever the same and I am looking forward to seeing what this one has in store for us. As always we will chase the weather and light for the best possible photography opportunities. Sleep will as always be kept to an absolute minimum as we search for spectacular midnight sun polar light. This will be my final post for the next two weeks before we dock back in Ushuaia. Bon Voyage.