Tag: Arctic

Arctic Foxes and Reindeer of Svalbard April 2025 Expedition Report

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There are few places on Earth that match the wild, remote, and brutally beautiful snow and ice covered landscapes of Svalbard in winter. Nestled deep within the Arctic Circle, this archipelago is a realm ruled by ice, wind, and wildlife. This April, I had the privilege of leading a private snowmobile expedition across this frozen frontier—a journey that would see us travel over 500 kilometres, find more than a dozen Arctic foxes, encounter reindeer and ptarmigan, and face the full spectrum of Arctic weather, from golden light to whiteout blizzards.

From the moment we arrived in Longyearbyen, the sense of isolation and adventure was palpable. The eve of an expedition is always an exciting time with the great unknown ahead. The air was sharp and cold, the light already tinged with the ethereal glow of Arctic spring. With 24-hour daylight just around the corner, we were on the cusp of the long polar day, and we planned to make the most of every usable hour. By April the sun no longer truly sets in Svalbard, which means there are hours of golden light available for photography. It also means we can work well into the night, taking advantage of times the wildlife is at its most active.

Our days were often long—starting at 5 a.m. and often not wrapping up until midnight—but the light was at its best during these hours. As any serious wildlife photographer knows, great light and great wildlife don’t run on a 9-to-5 schedule.

We travelled by snowmobile, fully outfitted in cold-weather gear, carrying camera equipment, safety gear, and enough fuel and supplies for extended runs. We based ourselves in Longyearbyen and made daily sojourns out into the wilderness in search of wildlife. Navigating the ice-covered landscape by snow mobile requires concentration and no small amount of stamina. But the reward? Untouched terrain, and wildlife in its most raw and natural form.

One of the primary goals of this expedition was to photograph Arctic foxes in their natural habitat. By the end of the trip, we had seen more than a dozen individuals—an incredible result in such a vast and challenging environment. These foxes, well-adapted to the cold and the shifting seasons, were in prime winter coat: a thick, snow-white camouflage against the terrain. This makes them hard to spot, but also incredibly photogenic in the snow covered environment.

One particularly encounter took place near a windswept ridge on the outskirts of Barentsburg, where we found a young white morph fox near the coastline. We set up low, using the terrain for cover, and waited. The fox came close—curious but cautious—offering a string of intimate moments that translated into some of the most compelling images of the trip. During this encounter we had to work quickly as there was a freezing wind that plummeted temperatures and numbed the fingers in moments. Despite the cold, some incredible images resulted from this encounter.

Another highlight came in the aftermath of a fresh snowfall. As we neared the town of Barentsburg, we spotted a fox high on a ridge line – watching from above. The soft light and pristine conditions gave the scene a dreamlike quality and a wonderful opportunity to show the fox in the landscape. It’s in moments like these that make wildlife photography in the Arctic such a joy.

While Arctic foxes were our primary focus, we were also treated to many memorable encounters with Svalbard reindeer in absolutely superb conditions. These smaller, stockier cousins of mainland reindeer are uniquely adapted to the harsh environment. We found several groups grazing through the snow-crusted tundra, their thick coats catching the snowfall.

Photographing them in the early hours and during the long twilight evenings, we were able to create evocative portraits against the vast, open white landscape amidst swirling snowfall.

Ptarmigan, often overlooked, became another fascinating subject. With their feathered feet and perfectly camouflaged plumage, these Arctic birds offered opportunities for intimate ground-level compositions. Catching one mid-fluff or just as it shook free a dusting of snow made for dynamic, storytelling frames that added variety to the trip’s portfolio.

Of course, no Arctic expedition would be complete without a taste of the extreme. One full day of our trip was lost to a powerful whiteout winter storm that swept through the region. Winds howled across the open landscape, visibility dropped to near zero, and temperatures plummeted well below -35°C with windchill. Of course, we ventured out to experience the storm, but photography was impossible and we returned to the safety of town after our winter storm experience.

We hunkered down in our base accommodation—frustrated by the lost shooting time, but deeply aware that this, too, was part of the Arctic’s story. When the storm finally passed, it left behind a transformed world. The landscape had been reset—smooth, sculpted by the wind, and freshly dusted with snow. This shift opened new possibilities for minimalistic compositions, and our fox sightings resumed with a renewed sense of wonder.

Our routine became a rhythm of extremes—early starts, long snowmobile journeys, and frequent stops to assess terrain, scout for wildlife, or simply pause and admire the view. The focus was always on maximizing opportunities while respecting the environment and the wildlife. This private snowmobile expedition was not just a photography tour—it was a true Arctic experience. From the exhilaration of racing across frozen fjords to the quiet joy of lying in wait as a fox crests a snowbank, it was a journey that tested us, thrilled us, and left us with a deepened connection to the polar world.

As the snowmobiles rolled back into Longyearbyen for the final time, we were exhausted but elated—changed in ways we hadn’t expected. That, more than anything, is the hallmark of a truly great expedition. We will be running another snow mobile expedition for Arctic wildlife in 2026 in Svalbard. The expedition will again see us based in Longyearbyen, making daily journeys out in the field in search of wildlife. The expedition will run from April 1st until April 5th, 2026 and is limited to just three participants. Full details are now available on the website HERE.

Update on the Helicopter Polar Bear Incident in Svalbard 26th April 2025

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It has taken some days, but tonight I finally received a response from the Governor’s office in Svalbard in relation to the horrific story I reported on HERE regarding the harassment and stressful darting of Polar Bears via helicopter. Since I wrote about this story it has been published by NRK in Norway as well as Svalbard Posten in Longyearbyen and several other news outlets have also run the story. It has also been widely shared on Social Media and photography websites including PetaPixel.

The response from the Governors office reads: “Hello, The Governor is looking into whether the institution has complied with all conditions in the permit.”

I have sent the following correspondence to the Governor’s office in response: “Good morning Eva,  Thank you for letting me know that the Governor is now conducting an investigation into this incident. I am preparing a paper for submission to the Governor with time-stamped photographs as well as the GPS co-ordinates that clearly shows Jon Ars’s recounting of the 3-4 minute chase is a blatant lie. The photographic time-stamped evidence is indisputable.  

I am also preparing signed letters from all 12 passengers and the Captain that were on board M.S Freya that  witnessed this event that corroborate the events that took place as reported. The 2nd mate on board also timed the event and has provided evidence to me as well.

Further to the above – there may be a case with the civil aviation authority regarding the manner of reckless high speed low-level flying we witnessed during the chase. This is a question for the CAA.

In addition to the above, questions need to be asked surrounding the fact that this chase and hunt was conducted in front of our expedition vessel without regard to the passengers who had paid to see and observe a polar bear in the wild (safely from a distance of 3km).

This is not just a question of wether the helicopter and researchers adhered to all the regulations (which I find very hard to believe given all of the above), but of the double standard being applied in Svalbard regarding Polar Bears, photographers and researchers.

Broader questions need to be asked at the highest level of the Norwegian Polar Institute about the continual need for tagging of Polar Bears (removal of pre-molars, claws, invasive use of heart and pulse rate monitors and collars on female bears). Or, is the NPI merely trying to avoid having its funding cut from the Norwegian government by continuing ‘research’ that is no longer necessary. How many more bears have to be stressed and killed by invasive sedation methods??? What is the current count on dead bears from this methodology in Svalbard? I am aware of at least two from NPI employees in recent times.

These issues need to be treated with utmost priority and I will continue to push this through mainstream media until Polar Bears are no longer harassed or stressed in the name of unnecessary science. And, until such time, that the rules surrounding viewing and photographing of Polar Bears in Svalbard are revised in accordance with common sense and applied equally to all who visit Svalbard – be it general tourist or scientist.”

What can you do to help? Please sign the petition HERE.

Helicopters, Hypocrisy, and Harassment: The Double Standard of Polar Bears in Svalbard

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Many wildlife photographers of are likely already aware of the increasingly absurd regulations being imposed on all visitors to Svalbard, particularly surrounding the ‘so-called’ protection of polar bears. One of the most contentious of these mandates is the requirement to maintain a minimum distance of 500 meters from a polar bear—no matter the circumstance. That includes viewing from the safety of an expedition vessel and even when a bear voluntarily approaches. Photographers, wildlife enthusiasts, and nature lovers are being pushed further and further away, forced to retreat at the exact moment nature becomes intimate and magical. These new regulations are not designed to protect Polar Bears – they are designed to stop Polar Bear watching in Svalbard.

The new law (Legislative Decree 65 2023–2024), passed in mid-2024, reads:

It is prohibited to unnecessarily disturb, lure, or pursue polar bears.No one may travel or stay closer than 300 meters to a polar bear. From March 1 to June 30, no one may travel or stay closer than 500 meters to a polar bear. Anyone who spots a polar bear closer than the distance limit must move away so that the legal distance is maintained.

Yet on the 20th of April this year, 2025, I witnessed something that throws the entire justification for these restrictions into serious question. I documented an utterly disgraceful scene involving so-called “researchers / scientists” from the Norwegian Polar Institute, who, under the banner of science, mercilessly harassed and stressed a wild polar bear with their helicopter. This wasn’t a misunderstanding or a necessary intervention. This was a prolonged, high-speed chase that left a majestic animal panicked, exhausted, stressed and visibly terrified.

We had been observing this particular bear from a respectful distance aboard our expedition vessel—more than 3 kilometres away—as it rested peacefully on the ice and slowly ambled across the frozen landscape. It was calm, undisturbed, and behaving entirely naturally. We observed the bear for more than four hours, keeping our distance and respecting the environment and the bear. Then came the helicopter.

Flying in at a low altitude and high speed, the chopper panicked the bear almost immediately. It leapt up and began running at full speed, clearly terrified by the sudden roar and presence of the aircraft. What followed was not a quick dart-and-release operation. Instead, the helicopter pursued the bear relentlessly for more than thirty minutes, sweeping down to within mere metres of the fleeing and now highly stressed animal. This was not research—it was a chase. And it was heartbreaking to witness.

Eventually, after the bear was clearly exhausted and had no energy left to continue running, it was darted. Imagine that: terrorising an animal into a state of total exhaustion and stress before sedating it. All in the name of science. 

Let’s be crystal clear here: this was harassment, pure and simple. No matter how it’s packaged, this kind of treatment of a wild animal is not only unethical, it is completely out of alignment with the strict rules imposed on everyone else in Svalbard. If a group of photographers or tourists had behaved this way—approaching a bear at such a close range, causing it to flee in fear, disturbing its natural behavior—we’d be vilified. Fined. Possibly even banned. And yet when it’s a helicopter marked with the insignia of a research organization, this behavior is suddenly justifiable?

I want to be clear at this point. I am not against the science of Polar Bears. I am against the invasive and highly stressful nature in which this science is currently being carried out by the Norwegian Polar Institute. They, and the governor of Svalbard are responsible.

We cannot stand by and allow this kind of hypocrisy to go unchecked. The rules in Svalbard must be applied consistently, regardless of whether the person breaking them wears a lab coat or carries a camera. If it’s unacceptable for an expedition ship to remain stationary while a curious bear approaches, how can it possibly be acceptable to chase that same bear with a helicopter until it collapses from fear, stress and exhaustion?

This is not an isolated incident. Reports from others who have spent time in the Arctic tell similar stories of “research” being used as a shield for disturbing and unnecessary interference with wildlife. It is high time we start questioning who is truly disturbing the natural order in Svalbard.

I’ve included above a photograph—a zoomed-in crop from a 600mm lens—that captures the moment this bear, utterly drained and frightened, tried to escape the mechanical predator circling above. It’s not easy to look at, but it is vital that this image be seen. I urge you to share it widely. Send it to the Governor of Svalbard. Send it to the Norwegian Environmental Agency and Norwegian Polar institute. Send it to every institution responsible for wildlife regulation and oversight in the Arctic – This needs to stop.

The polar bear is not just a symbol of the Arctic—it is an apex species already under tremendous pressure from a rapidly warming world. The very least we can do is treat it with the respect and dignity it deserves. And that means holding everyone—scientists, tourists, guides, and yes, photographers—to the same standard of ethical behavior.

The world is watching. Let’s make sure Svalbard does better.

Addendum: Through a mutual friend, Morten Jørgensen (author or Polar Bears on the Edge), Nikita Ovsyanikov, (Dr. of Bio. Sci., Polar bear specialist), has reached out with the following statement.

“This is a very powerful message in this record of the violence against the bear done by polar bear scientists in Svalbard.  And this evidence should be published widely in all possible media, in all possible ways. Science is doing its cynical business, jeopardizing polar bears in this way to “answer the question of how global warming is affecting polar bears “. These scientists are driving polar bears to extinction. What they are doing is an ecological crime, nothing else!

Considering the legal aspects of this event, and of this invasive methodology in general, the following qualification should be applied:

Due to its de facto impact on animals, this application of such an invasive methodology, should be interpreted as a violation of the law. There are laws intended to protect animals from cruelty, and this is intentional cruel treatment of an animal. There are laws protecting endangered animals, and this intentional treatment has a strong negative impact on and endangered and protected animal.

This harassment of animals and violation of humanitarian and conservation principles must be stopped. Protection of animals from cruelty and protection of endangered species from negative impacts that reduce their survival capacity (evidence is numerous, but continuously denied by the scientists more interested in continuing their business) should be made real and effective.”

Nikita Ovsyanikov, Dr. of Bio. Sci.,  Polar bear specialist, Ethologist and conservationist.

Dr. Nikita Ovsyanikov is widely regarded as the most experienced Polar Bear scientist in the world with decades of experience. 

How can you help? Please sign the petition HERE.

This article was also published by Peta Pixel and has been sent to the authorities and Governor of Svalbard. To date, no response has been received.

Photograph of the Month November 2024 – Arctic Fox in Flying Snow

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Without a doubt, my favourite conditions for photographing the Arctic Fox are winter blizzard conditions. The flying snow creates a white-out that cleans up any background mess, and the flying snow sticks to the fox’s coat and gives extraordinary context and much-needed drama. These conditions define the environment of the Arctic fox and paint the perfect canvas on which to photograph this amazing opportunist. Contrary to appearances, these conditions are far easier to photograph in than they appear. With modern auto focus in mirrorless equipment, the cameras have no problem finding and tracking the eye of the Arctic Fox in these conditions. In past years, I would often stop down the lens to ensure adequate depth of field if focus missed slightly. Now, with eye-auto focus, I can open up the lens and shoot wide open, as in this case – f4 at 600mm. Why shoot wide open? A wide-open aperture helps soften the surrounding snow’s slope, creating a contained picture inside the 35mm frame. This technique can be used to great effect to help keep the viewers eye both inside the frame and on subject.

Arctic Fox Photography : Capturing Nature’s Greatest Feat of Engineering

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The Arctic fox, with its thick fur coat and keen survival instincts, is one of the most iconic animals of the polar regions. For photographers, it represents a unique challenge and an unparalleled reward. Over the years, I have spent countless hours tracking and photographing this elusive creature in northwestern Iceland. Photographing the Arctic fox’s beauty has been my mission, but also the stark and fragile environment it inhabits. Some years ago I did a book on the Arctic Fox that covered my time spent photographing these animals in Winter. I will soon be starting work on a subsequent book on this incredible feat of Nature’s engineering. In the meantime, I wanted to share some of my thoughts and ethos on photographing these animals as the Arctic Fox remains one of the least understand and most persecuted Arctic mammals.

The Arctic fox is a true survivor of the extreme cold and desolate landscapes of the Arctic. Known for its striking seasonal changes—white (or brown) in the winter and blue/grey or grey in the summer—it blends into its environment, making it both a challenging and fascinating subject for photography. For me, the appeal of the Arctic fox lies not only in its visual charm but in its adaptability and resilience. Photographing Arctic foxes is about more than just snapping a picture of a rare Arctic animal—it’s about telling the story of an incredible species that thrive in some of the harshest conditions on Earth. Their playful, inquisitive nature, juxtaposed against the severe landscapes of ice and snow, creates opportunities for compelling visual storytelling.

One of the most significant challenges of Arctic fox photography is their elusive and cautious behaviour. These animals are small and nimble, often disappearing into the vast white landscape before a photographer can even reach for their camera. They are exceptionally fast, and their natural camouflage, especially in winter when their fur blends perfectly with the snow, makes spotting them difficult even in open tundra landscapes.

The importance of patience when photographing Arctic foxes cannot be underestimated. The best photographs are rarely the result of luck—they are the product of careful observation, waiting, and understanding of the animal’s behaviour. This means spending long hours in freezing temperatures, often in complete silence, waiting for the right moment when the fox reveals itself in the right light and setting. Patience is, after all, a key requirement in wildlife photography.

Despite the challenges, the experience is most definitely part of the adventure. “It’s not about rushing to get the shot,” instead, “it’s about immersing yourself in the environment and allowing nature to unfold in front of you.” Like many of the region’s inhabitants, the Arctic fox demands a photographer’s respect and humility.

The Arctic fox’s home is a land of extreme cold in Winter, and being prepared is paramount. Inferior camera gear can struggle in freezing conditions, so I recommend using weather-sealed cameras and lenses, along with a solid tripod, to prevent camera shake in high winds or on uneven terrain like ice and snow. Batteries drain quickly in the cold, so he always carries spares, keeping them warm in inner pockets.

Another important consideration for Arctic fox photography is clothing. Always dress in layers, making sure to keep your core warm while ensuring you can remain mobile. Staying warm and comfortable is crucial because wildlife photography, especially in the Arctic, often involves long periods of stillness while waiting for the perfect shot. It is a good idea to avoid overburdening yourself with too much gear. “Stay nimble,”. The Arctic fox is quick and often unpredictable, so a heavy gear load can slow you down. Typically, I will use long telephoto lenses for wildlife photography, such as 400mm or 600mm, allowing me to capture the fox from a respectful distance without disturbing its natural behaviour. I also have a preference for the look of wildlife images with telephoto compression.

Success in Arctic fox photography stems from an understanding of the animal’s behaviour and habitat. Arctic foxes are scavengers, often following polar bears and other predators searching for leftover food. Anticipating their movements increases the chances of an encounter. The best moments to photograph Arctic foxes often happen when they are unaware of human presence. We need to avoid making loud noises or sudden movements that could scare the fox away. Instead, we observe from a distance, allowing the fox to go about its activities naturally. Whether it’s searching for food, playing with its mate, or navigating the snowy landscape, these moments are intimate glimpses into the life of this extraordinary animal. We are also mindful of the light and the environment in which we photograph Arctic foxes. The Arctic’s soft, diffused light—especially during the golden hours at sunrise and sunset—casts a magical glow over the landscape, enhancing the fox’s natural beauty. I prefer these times of day for their softer contrasts and ethereal feel, which help convey the serenity and isolation of the Arctic wilderness.

Photography is about more than just technical precision. It’s about capturing emotion and telling a story. In Arctic fox photography, this often means finding ways to highlight the animal’s fragility and resilience in an unforgiving environment. I love images portraying the fox as a solitary figure amidst vast, barren landscapes, reinforcing the isolation that defines much of the Arctic. By placing the fox in wide, empty frames, I can underscore its challenges as a small predator in a vast wilderness, subtly commenting on the environmental threats posed by climate change.

In some photographs, it’s possible to show the Arctic fox’s lighter side, offering a sense of hope and vitality even in such a stark environment. These contrasting moods—loneliness and playfulness, vulnerability and strength—are key elements in an effective storytelling approach to wildlife photography.

Photography in the Arctic is not just about creating stunning images; it’s also about raising awareness of the threats facing this fragile ecosystem. The Arctic fox, while adaptable, is increasingly vulnerable to climate change. As temperatures rise and sea ice retreats, their hunting grounds are shifting, and competition with other predators, like the red fox, is intensifying. It is my hope to inspire others to not only appreciate the beauty of the Arctic but also to take action to protect it. Our photographs serve as a powerful reminder of what’s at stake, offering a window into a world that is rapidly changing.

My own approach to Arctic fox photography, I believe, is defined by patience, preparation, and a deep respect for the natural world. My images capture the Arctic fox in its element, offering a rare glimpse into the life of one of the Arctic’s most enchanting creatures. Through the lens, the Arctic fox becomes more than just a subject; it becomes a symbol of the Arctic’s resilience and vulnerability, inviting viewers to connect with both the animal and its environment in profound ways.

For those inspired by my work, the challenge of photographing the Arctic fox is an invitation to step into one of the most extreme and beautiful landscapes on Earth, where patience and persistence are rewarded with images that evoke the timeless spirit of the frozen North.