Antarctica The Wild Side – Weddell Sea Expedition

In February 2016 I will be leading a brand new expedition to Antarctica. Unlike previous years this new expedition to Antarctica will depart in February instead of early November and will take us deep into the Weddell Sea – the Wild Side of Antarctica. The expedition dates are February 9th – February 20th 2016. The Weddell sea is an area of Antarctica pretty much inaccessible earlier in the season due to sea ice conditions and our intention is to explore and photograph this rarely visited wild side of Antarctica. We will be using an ice-hardened expedition class ship ‘Polar Pioneer’ so we can push quite a lot of ice safely; which will enable us to get much further south than most vessels.Antarctica-Weddell2015We will sail across the Bransfield Strait to Antarctic Sound on our journey toward the Weddell Sea. Antarctic Sound is home to literally monolothic tabular icebergs that break off the Antarctic ice shelf and float up out of the Weddell Sea. There are incredible photographic opportunities in this area and we will stop to take advantage of spectacular tabular icebergs as we encounter them. We then plan to travel down the east side of the peninsula as deeply as we can penetrate into the sea ice.

Polar Pioneer

The peninsula’s wild side will welcome us with huge icebergs and spectacular scenery. We will likely visit Paulet Island, a conical volcano with a huge Adelie penguin colony that rises several hundred feet from the islands periphery to its lower slopes. Penguin covered icebergs drift in the currents set against towering ice cliffs. We also hope to explore Prince Gustav Channel and Seymour Island. We will also explore the west coast of the peninsula which offers glaciated peaks rising from a maze of islands and waterways alive with seals, penguins and whales. At the conclusion of the expedition we will sail back across the Drake Passage to Ushuaia.An Epic Sense of Scale

This expedition is for a strictly limited number of just 54 photographers. With many of the expedition ships now taking well over 100 passengers this is a unique opportunity to take advantage of a small group on an ice hardened expedition ship in one of the most rarely visited areas in Antarctica. Due to preliminary expressions of interest and bookings there are now only a few places remaining before this expedition will be sold out. If you would like to confirm cabin availability or would like any additional information about this expedition please drop me an email to info@jholko.com. A detailed PDF information flyer and itinerary can be downloaded clicking on weddellsea2016.

The Spirit of Antarctica 2014 Expedition Report

In early December 2014 I led an expedition to Antarctica ‘The Spirit of Antarctica‘ with my good friend and fellow Nature photographer Antony Watson. This expedition departed from Ushuaia and saw us sail across the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula. We spent the next ten days exploring the incredible landscapes and wildlife of Antarctica before our return back across the Drake to Puerto Williams in Chile. We were quite fortunate with both crossings of the Drake and unlike my previous South Georgia Island expedition we really did not experience the ferocity that the Drake is so renowned for. Our crossings by comparison were quite mild which was manna from heaven for those of us who succumb to the occasional bout of sea sickness.

This expedition was a mixed group of photographers, climbers and kayakers which provided us with some unique opportunities to include the human element in our photographs. It also meant that we had quite a lot of room in our zodiacs for gear and equipment.

During this expedition we visited several new areas I had not been to before in Antarctica including Enterprise Island, Elephant Point and Useful Island. Enterprise Island turned out to be a really fantastic location where we encountered two humpback whales which played for a short time before they decided to head south. We also stopped to photograph the wrecked remains of ‘The Governor’ whaling ship. This abandoned hulk rests in the shallows of the island and provided wonderful subject material for our cameras. I normally choose not to photograph on blue sky days in Antarctica and instead soak up the beauty of the location but in this instance there was just enough interesting cloud to make a strong photograph. The key to this image was to ensure just the right angle on the ship and not to clip the reflection in the water. One of the wonderful things about zodiac photography is if you miss the shot on the first pass you can always have the driver turn the zodiac around for another go. If memory serves, we probably spent the better part of an hour photographing around the wreck remains. The wildlife photographers amongst us were thrilled with the nesting Antarctic terns and we also encountered a Crab Eater Seal on a nearby ice-flow. Enterprise Island is a location I am now looking forward to returning on future expeditions.

The GovernerElephant Point turned out to be another wonderful new location that reminded me very much of South Georgia Island. The beach was bedecked with Elephant Seals, Fur Seals and Gentoo Penguins when our zodiacs landed and there were outstanding opportunities for really intimate wildlife images with recently hatched penguin chicks. We even came across a vagrant King Penguin as we explored the area. Elephant Point is also a wonderful location to photograph Giant Petrels, Kelp Gulls and many other bird species. Personally, I spent quite a bit of time photographing the Giant Petrels during light snowfall. By far the majority of the photographers on this expedition had never visited South Georgia Island and this stop at Elephant Island really gave them a taste of the incredible Bio-mass one finds in South Georgia. I am leading a dedicated expedition to South Georgia Island this November and can’t wait to return. There are only two places remaining before this expedition will be sold out. You can read more about that expedition HERE.

Giant PetrelWe also visited the geothermal caldera and remains of the whaling station at Deception Island during this expedition and were fortunate to have some overcast skies and light snowfall; which really added to the mystery and drama of this location. Deception Island is one of my personal favourite locations for photography in Antarctica. I actually wrote a short op ed. piece on this location earlier last month. This wonderfully surreal location offers virtually limitless opportunities for photography and its a great place to wander and explore. It has been interesting to watch the decay of the whalers remnants from visit to visit and year to year at Deception Island. My feeling is there is probably only a decade or two remaining before all that will be left is a few scraps of iron. Deception Island

One of the regular stops for Antarctica expeditions and one of my favourites for photographing penguins is Cuverville Island. Surrounded on just about all sides by towering mountains and hanging glaciers Cuverville Island is home to well over a thousand Gentoo Penguins and offers fantastic opportunities for photography amongst the many rookeries. We were fortunate to experience heavy snowfall during our stay here and some really fabulous photographs came out of this day. This photograph (my favourite from this Antarctica expedition) really captures the feeling of solitude one feels in Antarctica. I actually used this image recently in an article here on my blog ‘How to get Emotion and Mystery into your Landscape Photography‘ as an example of how to create evocative photographs.Antarctica-4470-Edit12014We even had an opportunity during this expedition to spend a night ashore camping at Useful Island for those who wished to partake in an overnight polar camping experience. From a photographic perspective this opportunity provided a great chance to work with the landscape and wildlife under the soft light of the moon and there is something quite surreal about falling asleep to the trumpeting sounds of Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins.

We also passed through the Lemaire channel during this expedition in wonderful conditions that even enabled us to have a BBQ on the back deck of the ship for dinner! This photograph of Gentoo penguins on the sea in front of our expedition ship was taken near the exit to the Lemaire channel in Pleneau Bay. This is an area I have visited on several other occasions, but this was the first time I have seen Penguins on the sea ice at this location.PolarPioneer and PenguinsAntarctic expeditions are always a unique experience. With the variation in weather comes a different expedition plan. These expeditions are fluid and its not uncommon for us to move from Plan A to B and C as the weather dictates. In this instance I think we got very close to sticking with Plan A for the duration of the expedition.

If you are interested in travelling and photographing in Antarctica, I will be leading a brand new expedition in February 2016 to the Weddell Sea – Antarctica The Wild Side. There are now only very limited places remaining before this expedition will be sold out. If you would like to know about this opportunity you can download a complete PDF itinerary and information flyer from my website HERE.

Just by way of a teaser and an easter egg for those of you who have read the trip review in its entirety: I am almost ready to announce a very special and totally unique opportunity for just four photographers to join me on a November 2016 expedition deep into Antarctica to photograph the mighty Emperor Penguins. This expedition will utilise a privately chartered transport jet to fly us deep into Antarctica where we are going to land on a pre-prepared ice-runway. At this point we will have left South America more than 3000 kilometres behind us and already be only 600 miles from the South Pole! We will then take a smaller privately chartered twin-otter ski aircraft to the remote Emperor Penguin colony where we will establish a field camp and spend our days living with and photographing the Emperors against a backdrop of spectacular mountains, icebergs and pressure ridges under soft evening  and early morning light. This is an expedition I have been working on for more than two years now and I am really excited to offer this very exclusive and unique opportunity to just four people very soon.

Book Review: Antarctica – The Global Warning by Sebastian Copeland

Antarctica – The Global Warning was released in back in 2006. The photographs are by Sebastian Copeland and there is a forward by Mikhail Gorbachev and a Preface by Leonardo DiCaprio. At the time of release it retailed for approximately $70.00 AUD here in Australia. It can now be found for significantly less than that if you shop around. You might want to read this review in full however before you part with your hard earned dollars on this book. I have actually been meaning to review this book for some time now, but before I begin I just want to say a few words about what Antarctica is actually like for those of you who have never been there.

Antarctica is miraculous. It is a continent of stark and beautiful desolation and I feel very privileged to have now visited and led expeditions to this incredible continent numerous times over the last few years. No where else on earth have I experienced such a sense of wonder as what I have felt in Antarctica and no where else is the landscape so other worldly. There is a variation to the weather, light and landscape in Antarctica that is in my experience completely unique. Mother Nature is a mad scientist and Antarctica is surely her greatest creation.

I have seen and experienced Antarctica at it’s most sunlit, brilliant and dazzling. I have also experienced violent storms, catabatic winds, snowstorms and some of mother Nature’s wildest weather. I have experienced dark, moody and overcast skies, racing clouds, sunlit mountains and glistening blue glaciers, the gentlest of snowfall and the strongest of blizzards. The weather and conditions in Antarctica are as varied as anywhere on earth and every visit offers a new experience in this regard.

It is this varied weather and Antarctica’s ability to both dazzle with brilliance and glow with purity that I found so obviously missing in Sebastian Copeland’s – ‘Antarctica The Global Warning’ photography book. This omission might not have bothered me so much (if at all) if it were not for the title of this book; the connotation of which is undeniable. This is, in its most basic form, a book intended to fuel the global warming debate. I do not wish to enter into this debate in this review; suffice to say that in my experience global warming is undeniable (I have witnessed its effects every year in both Antarctica and the Arctic). The problem I have with Antarctica The Global Warning book is that it it only shows one face of Antarctica in an attempt to skew the viewers impression of what Antarctica actually looks like and that makes it only a half truth.AntarcticaglobalwarningI feel there was an opportunity (and even a responsibility) in this book that has been missed by Sebastian Copeland. The opportunity existed to show Antarctica not only at its most mysterious, dark and ominous, but also in its brilliance and purity. Sebastian could have shown the ‘real’ Antarctica and the global warming message would have been even stronger. Yes, Antarctica can look like the dark images portrayed in this book. But it can also look brilliantly dazzling and incredibly pristine and pure. Indeed, it is often the most brilliant weather that truly portrays the rate of melt underway. I feel somewhat at odds saying this as a photographer who seeks out dark, moody and evocative landscapes in my own photography. Ultimately however, Sebastian’s book is not intended as a book of fine art photographs; it is intended to deliver a message and the images it uses to do so are only partially representative of the true Antarctica.

By far the majority of people who will read this book will have never visited Antarctica and will never do so in their lifetime. There is therfore an obligation in my view to present a more balanced viewpoint on what Antarctica is truly like when the intended purpose of the book is to highlight global warming.

It is hard to get past the message Antarctica The Global Warning is intended to deliver and I feel that is largely due to my own significant experiences in Antarctica. Had I never visited the continent I may well feel differently about the photographs in this book and their intended message. This leads me to believe that I and others who have visited Antarctica are not the intended audience for this book.

Print Quality: From the dust jacket I was disappointed with the print quality in Antarctica The Gobal Warning. There is clear evidence of banding, crushed and muddy blacks, blown highlights and poor tonal gradation. The photographs themselves are highly stylised with what I feel has been overly heavy-handed post production treatment (particularly in the 3/4 tones) and heavy vignetting. Many of the photographs are quite soft and exhibit excessive grain and noise; which, would appear to be a combination of over processing and poor quality offset printing. I am giving Sebastian the benefit of the doubt that these were not technical errors during capture. Overall, I was bitterly disappointed with the print quality in this book.

I personally have a strong preference for images that are printed with a white border around them to help contain and frame the photograph. Many of the images in Antarctica The Global Warning are full page, full bleed and appear awkwardly cropped to fit the page size.  I find this approach detracts significantly from the photographs and the photographers vision. This approach leaves me feeling short changed as if the photographer or publisher decided it was more important to have a full bleed photograph than it was to respect the images naturally preferred crop. There are examples to numerous to document where important elements in images are arbitrarily cropped at the edge of the page which leaves the image experience incomplete.

I have attempted over numerous sittings with this book to come to a different conclusion; but ultimately I feel Antarctica the Global Warning is a propaganda piece likely intended for those who will never visit or experience the true nature of this miraculous continent. I do not believe photographers are the intended audience for this book or more care and attention would have been paid to the print quality, layout, cropping and selection of photographs. I feel this book is a missed opportunity and that to me is the most disappointing aspect to this book.

Overall Review – * Give it a miss. There are better books on this subject you should consider adding to your library first

Landscape Photography with Emotion and Mystery

I received an interesting message and question a couple of days ago via social media that I think is worth sharing here on my blog. Scott asks:

Hey Josh. As a hobbyist photog who doesn’t really participate in social media with my images nor enter comps, but shoots purely for relaxation and personal enjoyment and who struggles with creativity, how could you suggest I look to make landscape images with more emotion and mystery? I don’t really shoot the common haunts as I may as well just get a perfectly fine image off the web.

Its a good question and one I suspect Scott is not grappling with alone. Before I address his question though I think its worth taking a moment to look at what spawned the question.

A couple of days ago a blog post appeared on social media that got a number of photographers in a bit of a flap (the post is still doing the rounds on Facebook). Titled “Will the Real Landscape Photography Please Stand Up“, the essence of the post was that the internet is now awash with technically perfect landscape photographs that are soulless, lacing individuality and devoid of emotive content (You can read the original post HERE). As an aside, I am actually in complete agreement with the author and shared my thoughts about it on social media yesterday. I went as far to say that I felt the author had not gone far enough and that (to quote myself) “We live an age where prolificacy is rewarded over quality (at least on social media). Never before has the idea of less being more been so poignant in my mind.”

I have been feeling more strongly of late about these issues for all of those reasons already listed in the aforementioned blog post. In semi-frustration I kicked off my social media year with this comment on Facebook “2015: I want to see more mystery in photographs. Deeper relationships and more thoughtful and considered story telling. What is not shown matters more than what we show in a photograph. Give me a great story, mystery, drama and leave me longing for more…..”

What I didn’t do though was go on to talk about how to do that, which brings us to Scott’s question.

Photography is at its core a still medium that we use to tell stories. The problem with much of the photography that is referenced in the blog post ‘Will the Real Landscape Photography Please stand Up” is that there is no story being told by the photograph. Or rather, the story is one of technical perfection and a pretty picture.

Photography is the art of observation. It’s about finding something interesting in an ordinary place or thing. It frequently has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them. And that brings us to the art of seeing. An art that is being lost in a sea of technical perfection. Sure it takes technical skill to set up a camera and tripod in a beautiful location with great light and make a pretty picture. It takes artistic skill however to create an evocative photograph with emotion and mystery.

Creating images with mystery and emotion starts with seeing with better eyes. Weather, light and composition all play a vital role in the process but the real emotion is going to come from the story you are trying to tell with your photograph. I wrote yesterday in my book review of La Nuit du Cerf (Night of the Deer) about how photography is a subtractive process and what we exclude is often more important than what we include. Photographs are often successfully emotive because of what the photographer chose to exclude, rather than what he or she has included – there are countless well known examples to illustrate this point. Giving a sense of something is often far stronger than showing the whole thing. Leave something to the imagination of the viewer in your photographic compositions and you will find your images become stronger, more emotive and mysterious. The story does not have to be completed in a wide angle frame that encompass absolutely everything. It is often well worth letting the viewer fill in the blanks in their minds eye. After all, no photograph can compete with a stimulated imagination. The more you can fire the imagination of the viewer the more successfully emotive your photograph will become.

I cannot recall who it was who was first quoted as saying “Don’t photograph what it is. Photograph what else it is” but this statement is great advice we should all keep in mind when we are out taking photographs.

I have judged many photographic competitions over the last few years and without doubt those photographs that are most successful are the ones that tug on my emotional strings. These photographs create a connection with the viewer that is deeper and more meaningful than the feeling a pretty picture might impart.

Learning to see with better eyes takes time but is something we can train ourselves to do. Looking at photography books or attending galleries (not just photographic galleries) and exhibitions are two good ways to improve your vision. Look a how other photographers whom you admire interpreted a scene or subject and analyse what it is that creates the connection for you to the work. Think about what it is you are trying to say with your photography before you click the shutter. I frequently ask workshop participants what their photograph is about when they ask for feedback on their images –  I often receive a blank stare in return. If the photographer doesn’t know what the image is about how is the viewer supposed to know? It might be a photograph of a Penguin and that might well be the answer, but the real answer should be about what the photographer is trying to say about the subject.

Lets look at this photograph of mine of Gentoo Penguins on the sea ice near the entrance to the Lemaire Channel in Antarctica as an example. This photograph is about “being left behind”. It tells the story of the Gentoo Penguins in their environment. We know (even though they are small in the frame) that these are penguins because of their distinctive shape. We know they are in Antarctica because of the giant icebergs in the back ground. We know they are in their natural environment as they are walking across the sea ice. Yet, it is that one lone penguin that is lagging behind that creates the emotion in the photograph. When this photograph was judged at the 2014 APPA awards the judges giggled and commented about the story being told. The mere fact the photograph illicited giggles speaks to the emotive content. The photograph subsequently received a Gold Award.March of the Penguins

Now, if you put your thumb over the screen and cover up that lagging penguin then suddenly the story is now nowhere near as strong and the real power and emotion of the photograph is gone.

The same applies to the overall composition of this photograph. To the left of the large iceberg just out of frame is a large island. To the right hand side is a mountainous peak, likewise just out of frame; but neither of these elements are important to the photograph so I excluded them to simplify the frame and distill it down the essence of what I wanted the photograph to be about. I wanted to tell the story about the penguins on the ice with the little feller playing catch-up. Excluding these extraneous elements not only cleaned up the frame, but it also left the imagination to fill in the blanks about what might lie just to the left and right. Our minds eye fills in the blanks and at least in my own case I imagine the sea ice continually stretching out in both directions. This is far stronger than seeing the Island and mountain that are just out of frame.

There are some wonderful articles available on the internet about the art of seeing, the art of composition and creating emotive imagery and its worth taking some time out of your day to research them. Personally, I regularly listen to and enjoy the podcasts from Brooks Jensen over at Lenswork. I find his musings on creativity, art and photography insightful and useful in my own image making. David Ward who is a master of the intimate landscape has also written some excellent articles on this subject that have appeared in On Landscape magazine. I recommend subscribing to this magazine as it contains a great many excellent articles as well as countless examples of wonderfully emotive imagery.

Learning to see with better eyes is a core aspect to creating emotion in your imagery. Learning to use the elements available is another. Those who have travelled with me to the Polar regions know I relish bad weather. Snow, blizzards, and dramatic weather provides the perfect canvas to create emotive imagery. It doesn’t have to be Polar though – a breaking rain storm or the edge of weather will almost always provide an opportunity to tell an emotive story. The take-away to remember is that the weather provides only some of the feeling and drama to the photograph. It is your composition and choice of what you include and exclude that is going to tell the story. Remember, like all good stories, a photograph should leave the viewer wanting more. And that is the key to getting emotion and mystery into your photographs.

Baby Elephant Seal Play Time in South Georgia

One of the most fantastic experiences you can have during a Nature photography expedition is getting close to wildlife. Close encounters with wild animals are always special and can yield wonderful photographs. During the recent twenty one day expedition I lead to South Georgia Island and Antarctica we were fortunate to have some wonderful close encounters with wildlife. One of the most memorable was with a baby Elephant Seal at Grytviken Harbour in South Georgia.  This very curious and inquisitive baby seal decided it would be good fun to play in the shallows and kiss the underwater camera. Just click on the image below to play the video.Screen Shot 2015-01-23 at 7.47.12 pmIt is important to note that this seal approached us on its own and was in no way stressed or harmed – it was merely curious. In fact, during our time in Antarctica we had several participants who even had curious baby seals approach them and try to climb up onto them whilst they were lying down and taking photographs. Baby seals are often very curious and its  quite common for them to not only approach well within five metres but also to touch, push and play with people. We always respect wildlife and boundaries to the wildlife and enjoy these special moments when the wildlife decides to come to us and investigate.

The underwater housing featured in this short video and that was used to make this photograph is an Aquatech Delphin 1DX housing with underwater dome port.Baby Elephant Seal