Canon EOS R1 – 8 Months in the Wild: A Field Photographer’s Perspective

For the past eight months, I’ve been working extensively with two of Canon’s EOS R1’s—Canon’s long-awaited flagship mirrorless body—in some of the harshest and most remote environments on the planet. From the snow-blasted cliffs of Hornstrandir to the sea ice of Svalbard, the windswept Arctic Circle island of Grimsey, to the frozen sea ice deep in the Weddel sea region of Antarctica, the R1 has been at my side through thick and thin, shooting everything from high-speed Arctic foxes to cliff-dancing puffins, charging walrus bulls, stoic polar bears in whiteout conditions and majestic Emperor Penguins.

This isn’t a review based on lab tests or YouTube comparisons. This is the perspective of a full-time working wildlife and nature photographer who relies on his gear not only to create imagery but to function flawlessly in environments where failure is not an option.

Initial Expectations – When Canon announced the EOS R1, the bar and expectations were set sky-high. The promise was of a no-compromise, professional mirrorless body designed to finally go toe-to-toe with the competition in the high-speed, high-performance segment, but with Canon’s colour science, ergonomics, and reliability.

After moving to the EOS R5 MKII for lighter-weight expeditions, I found myself constantly pushing against its limitations—buffer depth, tracking inconsistencies, and durability being the most significant. The EOS R3 helped bridge that gap, but I still longed for a body that felt as bulletproof as the 1DX Mark III, with the speed and accuracy needed for unpredictable Arctic wildlife and landscapes. The EOS R1 promised that convergence. It was a long wait – And, in short, it was worth it.

In the Hand – From the first time I picked it up, the R1 felt like an old friend. The ergonomics are classic Canon—refined, intuitive, and completely muscle-memory driven for anyone coming from the 1D or R-series. The integrated vertical grip is beautifully balanced. The magnesium alloy body is solid but not excessively heavy, and most importantly, every button is exactly where it should be—even when wearing thick gloves in -40°C temperatures.

The R1 has survived rain, snow, salt spray, sub-zero wind chill, and even a minor fall onto sea ice without missing a beat. It’s weather-sealed to a degree that gave me absolute confidence in the field—something I can’t say for all mirrorless systems.

Autofocus – A New Benchmark – If there’s one area where the R1 has fundamentally changed how I work in the field, it’s autofocus. Simply put, the AF system in this camera is astonishing. I can lock onto an Arctic fox sprinting across a windswept snowfield at 40km/h and trust the R1 to not only find the eye, but to maintain critical focus through erratic movements—even when the subject disappears briefly behind foreground grasses or snowdrifts.

The deep-learning-based subject recognition has expanded dramatically. Eye tracking works almost flawlessly on mammals and birds, even in backlit or low-contrast conditions. The system now recognises a broader set of body shapes and head angles. In real-world terms, this means fewer missed frames, more keepers, and less need to second-guess the AF system. I’ve used the R1 to track puffins flying straight at me in gusting winds, razorbills launching from cliff edges, and polar bears moving through layers of blowing snow. In all these scenarios, the camera performed like a seasoned field partner—silent, responsive, and ruthlessly efficient.

There is still room for improvement, though. When shooting wildlife in falling snow with the Canon EOS R1, one of the more frustrating quirks that has emerged is the camera’s occasional difficulty in ignoring snowflakes (big or small) that pass between the subject and the lens. While the R1’s autofocus system is astonishingly fast and sticky in many conditions, its subject detection algorithms can sometimes momentarily latch onto a bright, high-contrast snowflake, especially in backlit or low-contrast scenes where the subject blends into the background (regardless of case setting). This can cause brief focus hunting or a shift away from the intended target—particularly problematic when photographing fast-moving animals like Arctic foxes or polar bears in a blizzard, where every fraction of a second counts. In heavy snowfall, the effect can compound, forcing the photographer to adjust AF case sensitivity, reduce tracking responsiveness, or switch to a smaller AF zone to help the camera “tunnel vision” on the subject. It’s not an insurmountable flaw, but in the right (or wrong) conditions, it’s enough to cost you the critical sharp frame.

The R1, as incredible as it is, cannot, as yet, ignore falling snow with the same ruthless efficiency that the 1DXMK2 and 3 could. The R1 will stubbornly grab falling snow in lieu of the wildlife to the point that it has, on occasion, forced me to switch to manual focus as in the video above. Falling snow is quite honestly the current Achilles heel of the EOS R1.

Frame Rate, Buffer, and Workflow – The EOS R1’s blackout-free electronic shutter and lightning-fast readout speed make it a dream for tracking fast action. I often shoot at 40fps in full RAW, which feels like wielding a high-speed cinema camera with stills precision. 40fps might seem excessive to some, but when you are searching for that perfect wing or paw position it is frequently the difference between getting the shot or missing it.

Critically, the buffer performance has improved dramatically over previous models. Even at full 40fps in RAW, I can shoot long sequences without any slowdown. This has been essential for capturing behaviour sequences—foxes leaping, puffins mid-flight, walruses rearing up from the surf—where timing and rhythm are everything.

Canon’s RAW format has continually proven to be the perfect balance between file size and post-processing flexibility. I’ve had no issues pushing shadows, recovering highlights, or making large exhibition prints from these files. My Lightroom workflow has remained fluid even when dealing with thousands of frames per day.

Image Quality – Resolution-wise, the R1 hits a sweet spot. At 24 megapixels, it provides the detail and dynamic range necessary for large-format fine art prints without ballooning file sizes. Colour rendering is signature Canon—neutral, nuanced, and skin tones (or fur tones, in my case) are beautifully rendered. The sensor’s performance in low light is game-changing. I’ve comfortably shot Arctic foxes in fading twilight and seabirds at ISO 25,600 with minimal noise and excellent detail retention.

I frequently shoot in high-contrast snow conditions, and the R1 allows me to retain texture in both highlights and shadows, giving more flexibility in post and fewer blown exposures in the field.

Electronic Viewfinder and LCD – One of the biggest shifts from DSLRs to mirrorless was learning to trust the EVF. On the R1, Canon has finally nailed it. The EVF is large, crisp, and incredibly responsive, with no perceptible lag even at high frame rates. Exposure and colour previews are accurate enough that I’ve stopped chimping almost entirely—I can make confident exposure decisions without pulling my eye from the viewfinder.

The rear LCD is sharp and usable even in bright daylight. I especially appreciate the ability to zoom quickly for focus checking, something essential when reviewing sharpness on Arctic fox whiskers or avian feathers in the field. I admit though, with my vision not what it used to be close up (I am 51) I almost never use the LCD screen anymore and prefer the EVF.

Silent Shooting and Minimal Disturbance – For wildlife photography—especially with sensitive species—the ability to shoot silently and discreetly is priceless. The R1’s electronic shutter is truly silent, allowing me to photograph close-range birds and mammals without introducing sound that might alter their behaviour.

Battery Life and Power Management – Battery life is excellent (although not as good as the Nikon Z9). Using the LP-E19 battery, I routinely get 4000+ frames per charge, even in cold conditions. With power-saving settings enabled and the EVF auto-switching intelligently, I rarely have to change batteries during a full shooting session. I carry three batteries for redundancy, but rarely needed more than one and a half per day—even when shooting thousands of images in a 14-hour Arctic summer day.

Lenses and Native Support – The R1’s performance is complemented by Canon’s growing lineup of RF glass. The RF 400mm f2.8 has been a mainstay for my Grimsey Island bird photography, while the RF 600mm f/4 remains my go-to lens for polar bear and fox work. I always keep an RF 70-200 or 100-500 handy on a second body for those close encounters.

The IBIS (in-body image stabilization) combined with RF lens IS gives handheld stability that’s frankly absurd. I’ve made sharp images at 1/20th of a second with the 600mm handheld—something that would have been impossible just a few years ago.

Lens performance is consistent across the board, and the EOS R1 brings out the best in these optics. I’ve seen a noticeable improvement in AF speed and accuracy compared to using these same lenses on the R5 or R3.

Video Capabilities – While I am a stills photographer first, the R1’s video features have not gone unnoticed. I’ve used the R1 to capture atmospheric B-roll—snow swirling across fox tracks, slow-motion footage of terns hovering in a gale—which has integrated beautifully into my expedition film work.

Durability and Trust – Ultimately, the most important quality in a camera for me is trust. I need to know that it will work in blowing snow, freezing wind, salt spray, and rough handling. The EOS R1 has proven itself beyond doubt. During one Svalbard expedition, I shot for more than six hours in -30°C with intermittent snow squalls and howling wind. The camera remained responsive, the battery held strong, and the sensor never failed to deliver. Another day, I took a spill on sea ice with the R1 slung at my side. It came away with a cosmetic scuff—and nothing more. That kind of reliability builds confidence. And confidence allows creativity.

What Could Be Improved – No camera is perfect. Here are a few areas where I think Canon could continue to evolve:

• Custom Mode Settings: More flexibility in assigning custom button layouts per mode would be helpful. Specifically, the ability to assign pre-capture to a multi-function button.

• Pricing: The R1 is a serious investment. While justified for professionals, it’s less accessible for serious enthusiasts.

•The Auto Focus algorithms need to do better with falling snow.

But these are quibbles, not deal-breakers. Canon has clearly built this camera with professionals in mind, and it shows.

Conclusion – After eight months of intense field use, I can say with complete confidence that the Canon EOS R1 is the most capable and reliable camera I’ve ever used. It is also the most complicated in terms of customising the set-up. Whilst not necessarily a bad thing (as it allows you to set up the camera to your personal preferences and shooting style), it does mean a step learning curve.

Arctic Fox 2020

The camera allows me to focus on my craft rather than my gear. It adapts to the unpredictable rhythm of wildlife. It empowers me to create in silence and solitude. It endures what I endure—and then some. Whether lying prone on frozen tundra waiting for a fox to approach, hanging off a cliff edge as puffins rocket past in golden light, or tracking a walrus bull charging through ice-laden surf, the R1 has delivered—frame after frame, moment after moment. It doesn’t get in the way. It just works. And when you’re working on the edge of the world, that’s everything.

Canon EOS R1 Firmware Update July 2025 Take Two

Canon Australia has this afternoon reposted the new firmware update for the Canon EOS R1.

This firmware (Version 1.1.2) includes fixes for the following issues identified in Version 1.1.0:
1. Fixes an issue where video could not be recorded correctly when using a memory card larger than 2TB with the [Pre-recording] setting enabled.
2. Fixes an issue where the camera failed to operate properly after updating to Firmware Version 1.1.0 if the still photo shooting/movie recording switch function was set to [Silent shutter function switching] or [Disable].

This firmware also incorporates the following changes introduced in Firmware Version 1.1.0:
1. Improves security features. A password must be set initially. 
•Adds the ability to review the history of any changes made to the password, network information, or other settings.
*For more information, please refer to the ‘Setting a Password’ section in the Advanced User Guide on cam.start.canon.
2. Enables firmware updates to be performed when the camera is connected to the internet and new firmware is made available on Canon servers.
3. Adds [Viewfinder Priority] mode, which activates the viewfinder when a user is detected by the rear sensor.
4. Adds the ability to automatically detect Flicker at 100 or 120 Hz during Live View display.
5. Adds the ability to register focus position as a presets on the CR-A100 Camera Remote Application. This ability makes it easier to focus on subjects at the intended distance when the application is used with Robotic Camera System CR-S700R.
6. Adds the ability to select [Panning Assist]. When users pan with compatible lenses, image stabilization and subject blur correction are applied during exposure.
7. Adds the ability to select [Case Special] to expand Servo AF characteristics which is effective for subjects located behind a net in sporting events, such as badminton or volleyball.
8. Adds support for the Software Development Assistance Kit (EDSDK/CCAPI).
9. Adds a function that simultaneously protects images when they are rated.
10. Adds the ability to use up to 8TB of CFexpress cards.
Note
– Cards larger than 8TB require low-level formatting by the camera.
– Cards larger than 8TB are treated as 8TB cards.
– Cards larger than 2TB cannot be used for firmware updating.
11. Adds to lower the image capture frame rate to help prevent overheating when connected to CR-A100 in extended remote shooting.
12. When transferring images with voice memos via FTP, the transfer order priority has now changed with voice memo (Wav) file being sent first followed by image file.
If a voice memo is added to an image queued for transfer, the image and voice memo are now sent last.
13. Adds the ability to set the number of shots captured in pre-continuous shooting mode.
14. Adds the ability to set [Airplane mode] to shooting button customization.
15. Adds the ability to enable [Exposure Simulation] when a flash unit is attached.
16. Improved AF tracking during video capture for subjects that are difficult to focus on.
17. Fixes an issue in which Err70 may occur when enlarging an image after shooting with [Blackout-Free Display] set to “On” and [Servo 1st image priority/One-Shot AF release priority] set to “Release priority”.
18. Fixes an issue in which Err70 may occur during Bluetooth communication due to interference from other Bluetooth devices.
19. Fixes an issue in which Err70 may occur when repeatedly shooting in the “High-speed continuous shooting +” mode.
20. Fixes an issue in which Err70 may occur immediately after startup when shooting with the electronic shutter.
21. Fixes an issue in which Err70 may occur during video recording in “FHD239.8P/200.0P”.
22. Fixes an issue in which Error 70 may occur while filming in video mode with frame rate set to “50.00P” and [Movie Digital IS] set to “On” or “Enhanced”.
23. Fixes an issue in which Err70 may occur during shooting when both [Pre-recording] and [Auto send] to image.canon are set to “Enable”.
24. Fixes an issue in which the camera may stop functioning properly when [Image Review] is set to “Off” and the monitor entered low brightness mode after pre-continuous shooting.
25. Fixes an issue in which video recording may not be possible when using Remote Live View shooting in EOS Utility while outputting via HDMI.
26. Fixes an issue in which large RAW image files may not be transferred via Camera Connect.
27. Fixes an issue in which the camera may not connect to Wi-Fi 7-compatible routers.

If you are considering updating to the latest firmware, I recommend waiting at least two weeks in case any further issues are detected. Unless you have an urgent need for password protection, its always prudent to wait a bit on firmware updates.

Canon EOS R1 Firmware Update 1.1.0 July 2025

Canon has today released new firmware for the EOS R1. The firmware is now available to download from Canon Japan. It will propagate to other Canon sites throughout the day. There are a number of interesting new features, but unfortunately, the capability to bind pre-capture to a MFN button is not yet amongst them (clearly the Canon Engineers did not get the memo!). Canon EOS R1 Firmware v1.1.0 includes the following changes:

  • The security function has been improved.
  • A password can now be requested when the power is turned on.
    • You will need to set a password the first time.You can change the settings so that the password request screen does not appear.You can check the history of password changes, network information changes, etc.
  • You can now update the firmware on the camera alone by downloading it from the Internet.
  • A “finder display priority mode” has been added, which turns on the viewfinder when the camera’s rear sensor detects a person. 
  • 100/120Hz flicker can now be automatically detected during live view.
  • It is now possible to register the focus position in the preset function of the camera remote application CR-A100. When used with the Robotic Camera System CR-S700R, this makes it easier for the photographer to focus on the intended subject distance and take pictures.
  • Added [Panning Assist] to the menu. When panning with a compatible lens, camera shake correction and subject blur correction are performed during exposure.
  • The servo AF characteristics have been expanded to include [Case Special], which is suitable for shooting subjects through a net, such as badminton and volleyball.
  • Added support for the digital camera software development support kit (EDSDK/CCAPI).
  • A function has been added that allows you to protect an image at the same time as rating it.
  • Supports CFexpress cards up to 8TB.
    • Cards over 8TB require a low level format in the camera.
    • Any card over 8TB will be treated as an 8TB card.
    • Cards over 2TB cannot be used for firmware updates
  • A setting has been added to lower the image capture frame rate to prevent heat generation when connecting the CR-A100 and taking remote shots over long periods of time.
  • When transferring images with voice memos via FTP, the order of transfer has been changed to voice memo, then image. Also, if a voice memo is added to an image waiting to be transferred, the image and voice memo will be transferred last.
  • The number of shots recorded during pre-continuous shooting can now be set in single increments.
  • [Airplane Mode] has been added to the shooting button customization.
  • It is now possible to simulate exposure when using a strobe.
  • AF tracking performance has been improved for subjects that are difficult to focus on when shooting video.
  • Fixed an issue that could cause Err70 to occur when enlarging the display after shooting with [Blackout Free Display] set to “On” and [Servo AF 1st Frame Release/One-Shot AF Release] set to “Release Priority.”
  • Fixed an issue where Err70 could occur during Bluetooth communication due to interference from other Bluetooth devices.
  • Fixed the phenomenon that Err70 would very rarely occur when repeatedly shooting in “High-speed continuous shooting +”.
  • Fixed the phenomenon that Err70 would very rarely occur when shooting with the electronic shutter immediately after starting up the camera.
  • Fixed the phenomenon that Err70 occurs very rarely when recording video with the “FHD239.8P/200.0P” setting.
  • Fixed an issue that occasionally caused Err70 to occur when using the camera in movie mode with the frame rate set to “50.00P” and [Movie Digital IS] set to “On” or “Strong.”
  • Fixed an issue that could cause Err70 to occur while waiting to shoot when [Pre-recording] was set to “On” and [Auto Transfer] to image.canon was set to “Yes”.
  • Fixed an issue that could cause the camera to stop working properly if [Review] was set to “Off” and the monitor displayed a low brightness image after taking pre-continuous shots.
  • Fixed an issue that could cause video recording to be impossible when using remote live view shooting in EOS Utility with HDMI output.
  • Fixed an issue where large RAW images could not be transferred via Camera Connect.
  • Fixed the issue of being unable to connect to a Wi-Fi 7 compatible router.

Download firmware v1.1.0

Lightroom Order of Operations with A.I Editing – July 2025

The order of operations in Adobe Lightroom’s Develop module has long been misunderstood by many. Historically, it has not really mattered all that much in which order you make adjustments in the Develop module, as Lightroom would re-order the adjustments into its preferred order when rendering a finished file. With the adjustments being parametric (simply a list of instructions for how to adjust the image) there was never much concern over where you started or finished with your edit workflow. It has always been good practice to work from top to bottom in the Develop module, but now with the introduction of AI editing, there is a preferred workflow as noted below:

  1. Open and edit a photo using AI-powered features like DenoiseMaskingLens BlurGenerative Remove, etc.
  2. When a photo has AI-powered edit settings, the AI Edit Status button is turned on. The button will have a yellow highlight when some AI settings need to be updated to render your photo properly.  
  3. Select AI Edit Status to view the details of all the edits made with AI-powered features.
  4. Select Refresh to update only the corresponding AI setting. It’s recommended to review the results before updating subsequent AI settings in the list.
  1. AI Edit Status is shown with an Update All button.
  2. Select Update All to update all highlighted AI settings in top-down order.

Note: The AI Edit Status button is available on Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom on desktop, Lightroom Classic, Lightroom on mobile, and Lightroom on the web. Follow the mentioned workflow to access the AI Edit Status button in your preferred Lightroom surface.  Order of AI edit operations – The order of operations also applies to Lightroom on desktop and Lightroom Classic.  The recommended order of operations to avoid unexpected results and achieve the best output is as follows: 

  1. HDR
  2. DenoiseRaw DetailsSuper Resolution
  3. Reflections Removal 
  4. Distracting People Removal
  5. Generative Expand (Currently available only in Adobe Camera Raw as Tech Preview)
  6. Generative RemoveContent-Aware RemoveHeal, and Clone
  7. Lens Blur
  8. Lens Profile 
  9. Crop and Transform
  10. Adaptive Profiles
  11. Global Adjustments
  12. Masking

Mastering Your Camera: The Key to Success in Wildlife Photography

Wildlife photography is one of the most challenging and rewarding genres of Nature photography. Creating powerful and emotive wildlife photographs demands a deep understanding of animal behaviour, patience, and the ability to adapt to unpredictable environments. But beyond all that, there is one factor that determines whether you capture the decisive moment or miss it completely—how well you know your camera.

Over the decades I have been working as a professional Nature photographer, I’ve had the privilege of photographing in some of the planet’s most remote and extreme environments, from the frozen landscapes of Antarctica to the rugged and unforgiving Arctic tundra of Svalbard and Greenland. In these places, conditions can be brutally harsh, wildlife is unpredictable, and opportunities are fleeting. In such environments, there is no time to fumble with settings or second-guess technical choices. Mastery of your camera is the foundation that allows you to focus on composition, storytelling, and, most importantly, the wildlife itself.

In this article, I’ll discuss why knowing your camera inside and out is critical in wildlife photography, the key settings and features you must master, and how this knowledge translates into better images in the field. Even if you don’t shoot wildlife, this article will help you become a better photographer. It may even save you from an expensive purchase and from the common misconception that a new camera is the vehicle to better photography. In point of fact, a new camera is often detrimental to your photography in the short term as you have to learn the new tool.

The Unforgiving Nature of Wildlife Photography – Seconds Make the Difference – Wildlife photography is about capturing fleeting, decisive moments. Whether it’s an Arctic fox pouncing on prey, a polar bear emerging from the ice and fog, or a sea eagle diving for fish, these moments are unpredictable and often last no more than a split second or two. If you’re not intimately familiar with your camera, you risk missing the shot altogether. In fact, unless you have complete technical mastery of your camera, including muscle memory for all of its controls, you will almost certainly miss it.

I’ve repeatedly seen photographers in the field hesitate because they needed to adjust their autofocus settings, change their exposure compensation or otherwise make a technical adjustment. By the time they’ve made the adjustment, the moment is gone and the photograph has been missed. Wildlife doesn’t wait for you to be ready—you must be ready at all times.

Harsh and Unpredictable Environments – In many of the locations I photograph, the environment itself is a formidable challenge. Freezing temperatures in the Arctic can drain batteries quickly, gloves make it difficult to adjust dials, and snow can easily confuse a camera’s metering system. In such conditions, knowing how to operate your camera by feel—without having to look at buttons or menus—is essential. Even if you take the harsh environment out of the equation knowing how to operate your camera intuitively with muscle memory will improve your photography; regardless of the environment.

When I’m photographing Arctic foxes in Iceland’s Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, for example, I might be kneeling or laying down in the snow with high winds and blowing ice, tracking a fast-moving subject. In such situations, I cannot afford to be distracted by my camera. Everything must be second nature. The second I have to look away or stop and think about what I am doing from a technical perspective is the moment I stop being an artist and start being a technician.

Essential Camera Skills Every Wildlife Photographer Must Master – Autofocus Mastery – Autofocus (AF) performance can make or break a wildlife image. Understanding how your camera’s AF system works—its various modes, tracking capabilities, and limitations—is critical.

For wildlife, I typically rely on continuous autofocus (AI Servo) and use a combination of single-point and zone AF modes depending on the subject. For fast-moving subjects, animal eye-tracking autofocus (available on newer mirrorless cameras) is a game-changer. However, not all cameras perform equally well in different settings, and understanding your camera’s strengths and weaknesses helps you choose the right settings in the moment. This can only come with experience.

When photographing Arctic foxes, I frequently switch between single-point AF for precise focus (when the fox is stationary or moving slowly) and zone AF for tracking eye and movement (when it’s running or otherwise active). Knowing when and how to make these adjustments without taking my eye off the viewfinder is a skill that comes with practice. Once you master this ability you can free your brain up to focus (pardon the pun) on composition.

Exposure Control in Extreme Conditions – Wildlife photography often involves high-contrast environments. In the Arctic, for example, bright snow can fool a camera’s metering system, leading to underexposed subjects. Conversely, dark fur on an Arctic fox or polar bear in shadowed ice can result in overexposure.

Mastering exposure compensation and understanding histograms is crucial. I always shoot in Manual mode, allowing me to control shutter speed and aperture with an appropriate ISO setting for the light. Since I shoot in Manual I don’t need to dial in exposure compensation to ensure my subject is properly exposed. I know from experience, that in a bright white snow environment I am going to have to overexpose approximately two stops to ensure my whites are white (and not grey) and that my histogram is is biased to the right (for optimal signal to noise). To accomplish this, I simply shoot a frame, check the histogram and make any required adjustments before the wildlife comes into play.

Shutter Speed and Motion – One of the most common mistakes I see in wildlife photography (after underexposure) is using an inadequate shutter speed. A slow shutter can result in motion blur, rendering an otherwise perfect moment unusable. Of course, there are times when we want to introduce motion blur into a photograph to convey a feeling of movement. Other times, we want to ensure a sharp subject. As a general rule:
• Fast-moving subjects (birds in flight, running mammals): 1/1250s or faster
• General wildlife (walking animals, standing birds): 1/500s
• Slow or stationary subjects: 1/250s or lower, depending on focal length and speed of subject

Keep in mind the above are general guidelines only and you should choose an appropriate shutter speed to your subject. This is also where knowing your subject can greatly assist you.

One technique to try is using Auto ISO with a minimum shutter speed. This ensures you will maintain a sharp image while allowing flexibility in exposure settings. If you try this I recommend setting a ceiling for the ISO so that you control the final noise in your files.

Understanding Custom Buttons and Shortcuts – Modern cameras offer extensive customisation options. I encourage every wildlife photographer to set up their camera for quick access to critical settings. For example:
• Back-button focus: Separates focusing from the shutter button for better control of auto focus and metering.
• Custom buttons for AF mode switching: Quickly toggling between single-point and zone AF is essential. If you happen to also shoot a Canon EOS R1 then you can achieve this with just the one button on the back of the camera.
• Custom mode settings: Saving different exposure settings (e.g., one for action, one for static subjects) allows rapid switching.

By configuring my camera to my workflow, I eliminate unnecessary adjustments and can react instantly in the field.

Translating Camera Knowledge into Better Wildlife Images – Confidence and Speed in the Field – When you know your camera inside and out, you develop the confidence to focus on composition and storytelling rather than technical details. You will free up your brain to become an artist in the field, instead of a technician.

For example, during my Arctic fox workshops, I often find myself tracking a fox as it moves across a snowy landscape. Because I don’t have to think about my settings, I can concentrate on anticipating the fox’s next move, positioning myself for the best angle, and ensuring a compelling background. I am also ready to capture the decisive moment if the fox does something unpredictable.

Better Use of Light and Composition – Technical mastery also allows for more creative freedom. Instead of struggling with settings, you can focus on utilising the best light, framing your subject effectively, and telling a more powerful visual story.

A well-executed image isn’t just about sharpness—it’s about emotion, behaviour, and the relationship between the subject and its environment. Knowing your camera allows you to capture these elements with precision. Remember, we are visual storytellers. We want to tell the story of the wildlife in the environment in which it lives. Keep this in the forefront of your thinking and I promise you your photography of wildlife will improve.

How to Improve Your Camera Mastery – Practice Before You Travel – Before heading into the field, spend time practicing with your camera in controlled conditions. Learn its menus, test autofocus performance, and memorize button placements so you can operate it without looking. Make sure you master the tool (the camera) so that you can take full advantage of all of its capabilities in the field without disengaging yourself from the subject in front of you.

Simulate Real-World Conditions – If you’re preparing for an Arctic or cold weather experience, practice shooting in the cold with gloves on. If you’ll be photographing birds in flight, visit a local park and test your tracking skills. The more you train in realistic conditions, the more prepared you’ll be. When I was teaching myself how to photograph birds in flight I would go down to my local beach on the weekend with my camera and photograph seagulls for practice.

Learn from Mistakes – Every missed shot is an opportunity to improve. Analyse your images to identify technical errors and refine your approach. Continuous learning is key to mastering wildlife photography. Remember to also learn about your subject. The more you know about the wildlife you are choosing to photograph the more you will be able to predict its behaviour and the more likely you are to capture decisive and powerful photographs that fully convey the emotion of being in the field.

Final Thoughts – In wildlife photography, knowing your camera is just as important as knowing your subject. The difference between a missed opportunity and a breathtaking image often comes down to how quickly and instinctively you can adjust your settings. Mastering your camera frees you to focus on the art of photography—the light, composition, and the incredible wildlife we are privileged to witness. So take the time to truly understand your gear, because when the moment comes, you won’t have time to think—you’ll need to react.

ALSO PUBLISHED TO CANON RUMOURS MARCH 3RD 2025